Tyres

May 03, 2008 118 Replies

But I already have...

Oh yes there was - on both accounts - so thank *you* for proving that you never took your "C&G Motor Vehicle Craft Studies"...

No, I never took your dumbed down excuse for an aprentership, I got my qualifications when they were worth they salt, taught us how things work, how and why they go wrong and how to fix them without just opening the box of a service exchange unit, they didn't just teach glorified grease-monkeys how to correctly tighten nuts and bolts in the 'fast-fit' bay... Tell us Conor, seeing that I have told everyone when I started in the motor trade, when did you start - what car model was the new hot British design in the showroom?

Where? Where have you demonstrated its operation in regard to the self adjuster?

That was the CGLI 381, dumbass, not the 383.

Same here, spunkstain. As an apprentice at a Land Rover dealership, the first thing I was given to do to see how I got on was to strip and rebuild a V8. As a mechanic, I once had to cut a gearbox off a car and had to strip it and replace the input shaft I'd had to hack through.

1986. Not much in the way of hot new designs as everything was pretty much an update of previous incarnations.

More than you, narrow minded spunkstain.

Talking about yourself again Conor, the facts are, the thread stands witness to just who is the "spunkstain" (as you so elegantly put it)...

news:g13h4a$fo0$ snipped-for-privacy@registered.motzarella.org, anyone who claims to have studied motor vehicle design or engineering will understand exactly (from the ASCII art in that message) how the adjuster works and why applying pressure in the wrong direction could (and probably will) damage the unit.

Stop talking to yourself...

As an apprentice at a Land Rover dealership, the

Liar, more like you looked over the shoulder of someone else... BTW how does one correctly prime the oil pump on one of those Rover V8 engines?

As a mechanic, I once had to cut a gearbox off a car and

Err, and what does that prove, that sort of work was my daily bread for many years after I moved into crash, restoration and car conversions from what had by then become the normal brain-numbing 'service and replace' side of the trade.

Lump of wood. Whilst the piston can cope with pressure being exerted that way, cast may not be that happy.

It worked. It both wound it in and it took up the slack.

Were you there? No. So keep your WRONG opinions to yourself.

So you're still a knuckle dragging mechanic then? At least I had the sense to see it for what it was - the typical refuge of the school remedial classes.

Most mechanics then and now are people who were incapable of passing O levels. Thanks to the fact I passed my 11+, I got a nice raft of O levels so was able to get out of spannering when I finally recognised it for what it was - the best that 11 plus failures could hope for.

I'd be very careful going down this road....

Whhhoooosssshhhh....

You have just proved that you *are* nothing more than a worthless troll, your understanding is less than someone who has seen these callipers (and the Rover P6), never mind worked on them.

":Jerry:" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

I've never seen a P6 rear caliper up close, but I'm wondering exactly wtf Conor's on about...

I really fail to see any way in which a wind-back piston can be wound back with a G-clamp, especially given that it doesn't sound like it's a sliding-yoke single-piston design...

":Jerry:" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

I've never seen a P6 rear caliper up close, but I'm wondering exactly wtf Conor's on about...

I really fail to see any way in which a wind-back piston can be wound back with a G-clamp, especially given that it doesn't sound like it's a sliding-yoke single-piston design...

What 'slack', again you apply demonstrate that you do not understand how these callipers work. the fact that you seem to have been (very) lucky does mitigate that you (to put it simply) bodged a very simple job. All you had to do was turn the piston!

Considering that you didn't answer the question placed proves that you arte a liar, and until you do prove that you know even the most basic of fact regarding working on these engines...

No I didn't say that at all, looks like you need remedial reading classes, you seem to not understand what the word 'was' means!...

Here's a picture.

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Definitely designed for being wound in with the appropriate tool.

snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

OK, so you can get a G-clamp onto the piston.

It's just down to "Will the clamp turn it rather than push it?" (Very unlikely ime of turny-piston calipers) and "Is there anything solid enough on t'other side...?"

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like there may well be. Either way, it's still a bodge.

...but that's not a Rover P6 calliper...

But not on the P6 Rover...

...the calliper is mounted, via a rather involved mounting/pivot bolt, to the diff carrier casting and even if one was to unship the calliper from the car, were one normally has a casting there is nothing more than a tin cover protecting part of the internal handbrake mechanism.

Partial parts diagram here

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shows the cover and some of the internal components.

Indeed....

":Jerry:" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

That's the last time I believe him...

Ah, the good ol' British Motor Industry... Why make something simple...?

Shake your fist at Google, it's all their fault for putting it in an image search for 'Rover P6 rear caliper'. F*****ts.

Hmm, they were simple, when compared to such delights as the front callipers (that included the handbrake) fitted to Alfa Suds etc....

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