The only set of kingpins i've ever had to replace were on a 1980 Ford pickup.. that was truly a joyous occasion. Thinking back on that is the reason for my apprehension about this car.. alas, it must be done.
Fortunately, I think the 'rare parts' will probably save me some money.
I also need to get a new clutch and pressure plate.. this one seems old enough it could be original. It's crumbling as well, so I don't really want to re-install it. This fluid drive is really a funky setup!
I got the kingpins out... I guess maybe you were trying to scare me by saying they are always difficult... :D Took about 4 whacks with a 4 pound hammer and a brass drift and the mamma jamma flew out like a greased pig! Of course, I only undid the driver's side so far, so the passenger's side may be a chore, but I doubt it.
So, off I went to O'reilly auto parts.. At first, I forgot my list of part numbers... the person who helped me said "we can't look anything up that is that old in the computer"... so I went home and returned with my list of part numbers. I went on the main o'reilly website and found all the 'rare parts' numbers... Amazingly, none of the parts cross-referenced in the computer. When the person finally asked someone else working there about rare parts, the rare parts site was brought up on the computer... according to the computer, i can't get the kingpin set, can't get the pins for the control arms. None of the parts I actually need. The only parts I was able to get were the shock absorbers.. All of it is listed on the main o'reilly website with part numbers. I can actually order the tie-rod ends from o'reilly, but they are twice the price of a place that actually has every part that i need online.. Sorry, I tried... I know you tried too. Whomever maintains the fricking website for the corporation needs to update the site if the parts are not actually available. It really makes these people at the local store look like a bunch of slackers when I have a part number from a live website and I can't order it.
They *were* able to order the 10W non detergent oil for the transmission. I have to go pick up the front shocks and the 12-case of oil tomorrow morning.
I went ahead and called Andy Bernbaum's and got everything else i need for the car at the moment.... cost an arm and a leg, of course..
I bought a 12-case of the ND10 oil. Should I be concerned that there is no API service label on the bottle?
ND oil would not have an API service label, so I'd say "don't worry!"
I bought a 12-case of the ND10 oil. Should I be concerned that there is no API service label on the bottle?
No... there is no API certification on ND10 oil. The API certification came into being with multi-viscosity detergent oils circa 1955 or thereabouts if I recall.
Mike
This country is going to be s.o.l. after you guys that remember all this knowledge are gone!
here's a link to some pictures of the car as I was taking it apart, etc.
xxxx://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq1/nza_420/1949%20Chrysler%20Royal/
change xxxx to http
Couldn't get the link to work.
Just post them here please.
Roy
actually, it's against the rules of USEnet to post binary images in any group not designated for such purpose.
all you have to do is copy and paste the link into the address bar of your browser, then at the beginning, where it says "xxxx" change that to "http"... it's really simple. If you are still unable to do that, email me privately, and I will send you a link that way or just send you pictures in your email. There are a bunch of them, however..
actually, it's against the rules of USEnet to post binary images in any group not designated for such purpose.
Actually, this is a unmoderated group. We have never done "rules" here.
all you have to do is copy and paste the link into the address bar of your browser, then at the beginning, where it says "xxxx" change that to "http"... it's really simple. I'm aware how simple it is. I messed it up.
Looks like a fun project. A bunch of cleaning/blasting and so on. Brings back memories. Enjoy yourself.
sorry if i sounded like a piece of male anatomy, was not trying to sound like that. i am really enjoying this project. never had something so old that was actually fixable without all sorts of BS (not counting getting parts).
Here's to hoping that someone will remember this crap then!
Cool, looks like fun.
I'm afraid the world is on the virge of losing a vast majority of previously learned knowledge.
hey guys, was wondering what the best approach would be for removing the old kingpin bushings and then installing the new ones. One of the ones on the spindle is a needle bearing, which they did not send, but I am assuming one of the several bushings is to replace the needle roller... I can only see two bushings on the one side, but they sent me three for each side.
anyhow, I don't want to screw anything up at this point, so I would seriously love to hear your opinions. I was thinking of using a hacksaw blade or a dremel tool to get the old bushings out. however, for re-installing, i haven't come up with anything better than putting the spindle in the oven for an hour and putting the bushings in the freezer for an hour and seeing if they will drop in with minimal banging from a hammer or drift. I have installed at least three ring gears on flywheels with this method.... the ring gears were so tight at ambient temperature, they were a tight tight interference fit. after heat soaking the ring and cold soaking the flywheel, the ring just dropped right onto the flywheel.
Thanks in advance!
That's the approach I would take too! Just be sure momma is not around when you do the oven thing... wimmen have no sense of humor about stuff like that... this is the voice of experience talking to you...
;^)
Mike
I'm wondering if you might be better off heating the spindle in oil. Did that a lot putting putting a hub on a shaft. Seems to get it hotter and more evenly. But ya can't do it in a oven.
Lol! Actually, i am encouraged by the people close to me to do whatever I need to do to get the job done. I would, of course, make sure the part is completely cleansed of oil, grease, etc. before i put it in the oven...
I have heard of that before. Sounds like a good idear as well, and one that wouldn't potentially stink up the house.. LOL... I have a hotplate that I use for cooking off grey water, and I guess it could get the oil hot enough. How hot are we talking? What type of oil? I am assuming I should put the spindle in the pot while the oil is cold and set it so it's not on the bottom of the pan. When I heated the ring gear in the oven, I got it to about 300 degrees for at least an hour.
Don't worry, I won't try to heat the oil in the oven... :D It will be outside and I will be wearing enough clothing to protect myself from splashes.
I have heard of that before. Sounds like a good idear as well, and one that wouldn't potentially stink up the house.. LOL... I have a hotplate that I use for cooking off grey water, and I guess it could get the oil hot enough. How hot are we talking? What type of oil? I am assuming I should put the spindle in the pot while the oil is cold and set it so it's not on the bottom of the pan. When I heated the ring gear in the oven, I got it to about 300 degrees for at least an hour.
Don't worry, I won't try to heat the oil in the oven... :D It will be outside and I will be wearing enough clothing to protect myself from splashes.
Trying to remember, been some time. Used 40w locomotive oil, heated by torch for a hour or so. Lota fumes from the oil I don't know what the temp was.
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