I have a 95 Taurus GL Sedan with 3.8L engine with a slight leak in engine
oil pan, mainly due to rusting through (from salty northern New England
For an oil pan replacement, can anyone tell me what must be removed first,
so oil pan can drop down clear enough to be removed.
Also, if exhaust pipe must be removed, is it easier to unbolt both exhaust
manifolds from heads then drop down bolted assembly vs. dealing with rusty
bolted pipes down below?
Any advice is much appreciated......
Looks like the Y pipe, then starter, then rear engine plate. Since your area
sounds tough for rust, I can really offer up real good advise on whether to
go manifold or pipe connections. I might buy stocks in penetrating oil
companies, though... 8^)
Heat the "ear" of the manifold where the stud goes through, cool the
stud (liquid nitrogen is ideal if you can get it, otherwise a wet rag
will sometimes suffice) impact the stud a few times (ball peen hammer)
then gently try turning it while keeping the manifold ear hot.
When the stud breaks (Murphy's law dictates that at least 1 will) fill
the manifold with a wet rag, heat up the 'stud only' & give it a shot
of oxygen. If it's done correctly you can blow out the stud leaving
the manifold undamaged, then run a tap through it and clean the
OR........Take the Jiffy lube crowd approach. Break off the ear of
the manifold that holds the stud & tack weld in a new stud for
reassembly (and yes I've seen vehicles that's been done on).
8^) is a poor mans smiley (look at it sideways).
Just keep it soaked in penetrating oil (most brands are nearly equal but pb
Blaster is better if you an find it).for as long as you can. Heating up the
manifold ear helps a lot too.... apply the flame to the thinnest portion
surrounding the stud. If the nuts are badly eaten, you may need to choose a
suitable socket and pound it on to what is left.
Some ga has given you some good tips.
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