95 Taurus, 3.8 GL Sedan,engine oil Pan replacement due to Rust leak: What must be removed first so oil pan drops clear?

Looks like the Y pipe, then starter, then rear engine plate. Since your area sounds tough for rust, I can really offer up real good advise on whether to go manifold or pipe connections. I might buy stocks in penetrating oil companies, though... 8^)

Thanks Jim...

What is " 8^ " ? Also, do you have preference for penetrating oil and could you offer any other suggestions for preventing stripping and breaking bolts during Y-pipe removal?

Heat the "ear" of the manifold where the stud goes through, cool the stud (liquid nitrogen is ideal if you can get it, otherwise a wet rag will sometimes suffice) impact the stud a few times (ball peen hammer) then gently try turning it while keeping the manifold ear hot.

When the stud breaks (Murphy's law dictates that at least 1 will) fill the manifold with a wet rag, heat up the 'stud only' & give it a shot of oxygen. If it's done correctly you can blow out the stud leaving the manifold undamaged, then run a tap through it and clean the threads.

OR........Take the Jiffy lube crowd approach. Break off the ear of the manifold that holds the stud & tack weld in a new stud for reassembly (and yes I've seen vehicles that's been done on).

Just keep it soaked in penetrating oil (most brands are nearly equal but pb Blaster is better if you an find it).for as long as you can. Heating up the manifold ear helps a lot too.... apply the flame to the thinnest portion surrounding the stud. If the nuts are badly eaten, you may need to choose a suitable socket and pound it on to what is left.

Some ga has given you some good tips.

drill and helicoil if it busts

hurc ast