To change the bulb, disconnect the plug, turn the knurled collar to loosen, pull
the bulb out of the fixture & collar. Installation is the reverse. It takes
about a minute if you have the new bulb and the hood's up.
Yes, this is because if you put dirt or grease on the glass -- it
prevents the heat from escaping from the glass envelope. Because the
heat has nowhere to go, the filiment inside overheats and breaks
prematurely and soon enough you will need a new light bulb.
Your best bet is to wear surgical gloves. Like the kind doctors and
nurses wear in the sterile hospital type environment.
Awwww. And you were doing so well up to there.
The filament uses the heat and the "halogen" gas to continually rebuild
itself, with the evaporated tungsten being redeposited back onto itself.
Skin oil or other similar contaminants create "hot spots" on the glass that
can make it stretch or warp at those spots, enough to weaken and crack
the glass, letting the halogen gas out, and normal air in, which will allow
the filament to burn out like any bulb.
"Sharon K.Cooke" wrote
Unless it's a 96 or later. Then (according to Autozone's repair guides), you get
to remove the headlight assembly first. 3 bolts, accessible with the hood open.
Yes, that's right. The tungstin filament needs heat inside the quartz
envelope in order to keep the tungtin on the filament so it won't burn
out as fast. This is why halogen bulbs last longer than the old fashin
Honestly the old fashion type bulbs should be fazed out by now since
they are so inefficient and they don't last near as long. It's like
insisting to sleep on "straw" mattresses and to use kerosine lamps
instead of electric ones in year 2005.
And if you do get dirt, grease, fingerprints on the bulb, you can clean it
with some alcohol, like isopropyl, ethanol or methanol. Clean/dry the bulb
with a soft lint-free cloth and be careful putting the "assembly" back
together. The surgical/latex gloves are a great idea!!!
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