Reparing Leak in Tire Side Wall

Nov 04, 2014 81 Replies

Jeff, tubes have been used on steel safety rims for several decades. That's the exact same rim used on today's cars (alloy wheels have the same rim profiles) You just have to know what you are doing. I've installed a few hundred tires with tubes over my life as amechanic - only damaged a very few tubes.

The bigger problem is tubeless tires have ridges on the inside that cause heating when the flex against a tube - and radials are worse than bias ply. There ARE special tubes made for use in radial tires that work in tubeless tires but are NOT recommended for high speeds.

Also a bruised sidewall is likely to also damage the tube by abrasion

Worse yet, the fabric on a radial sidewall is RADIAL - which makes it even more fragile than a bias ply sidewall

Up to $2.50 per tire extra for nitrogen fill can be rationalized. Any more is highway robbery.

No, nitrogen is snake oil. The air we breathe is already something like 80% nitrogen. You can do a search, but paying a tire shop for nitrogen is a waste of money, $10.00 using your threshold.

It's not bad, it's only not worth paying for.

On 11/05/2014 4:25 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote: ...

"Rationalized" on basis of dealer cost, maybe, but I can't see there's anything close to the payback possible for an ordinary passenger car tire on an automobile driven routinely.

What minimal advantages there are really only accrue for extremely long intervals between changes such as collector or antique vehicles or very specialized applications such as racing or hazard duty where the flammability in accident might conceivably be an added risk.

Otherwise, just nothing that it does is sufficient to make any discernible difference in the bottom line to the end user.

Check around for a good local tire shop. We have one in town and everyday prices are as good or better than the chain stores. Service is far better too!

Last year I put on a set of Nokian tires. A true all season tie for any part of North America. Best tires I've ever had.

With the air in the tire already 80% nitrogen and the outside of all tires has the same mix of 80 % nitrogen and 20% oxygen (with a trace of other elements) what good does the all nitrogen do ? Especially if the car is not driven enough to heat up the tires.

The idea is that a molecule of nitrogen is larger, therefore it will seep out slower. Let's assume this is true, is it worth money to forestall putting more air into the tires someday? There's NOTHING WRONG with nitrogen, the problem is paying for it.

'Buy our tires and get free nitrogen,' is a good sales pitch.

'Buy our tires, we'll put in nitrogen for ten bucks,' is ten bucks too much.

It's been a few decades, but nitrogen atomic weight 14, oxygen is 16.

- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Sasquatch Jones posted for all of us...

Along with all the posts in the thread the OP admits he needs new tires anyway...

The latest information I have read is that the best tread should be mounted to the rear axle.

My cars often are. I found the tires inflated with nitrogen maintained pressure better than when inflated with 80% nitrogen. Marginally - but enough that I'll pay the $10 for a set of 4. You may not find it worth while. That is your perogotive.

Ten bucks too much for you. That's fine. On a $1000 purchace, what is $10.00??? Or even on a $600.00 purchace.

I'll try to remember that the next time I'm mounting new tires on my bike.

The 'know what you are doing' part is the rub. I bought a set of tube type tires in Knoxville and the inbred knuckledraggers managed to pinch all four tubes. Thanks to copious quantities of fix-a-flat and a portable air pump, I made it back to Arizona. Mexican mechanics still understand tubes.

I had a set of Nokian studs on the last car. One thing Finns understand is driving on ice and snow. They even make studded bicycle tires.

2x on that. Best tires on the rear axle. It's easier to control a blowout on the front, you can still steer. Rear blowouts are prone to causing the rear to come around, IE spin out.

The "secret" is simply to lightly inflate the tube before installing the second bead, then inflate to low pressure, bounce the wheel, and inflate to seat the bead. Sure isn't rocket science!!!

That's not the reason though. The reason is the rear end needs to stay BEHIND you, and with less tread on the rear, it WILL come around just when you least expect it. This is why in MOST jurisdictions it is ILLEGAL to put snows on the front only on a front wheel drive car.

You know, at the WALMART near me, they INSIST on put the NEW TIRES on the drive wheels. Which in MY CASE is the BACK. That didn't MUCH help when I got HIT BY a semi driver on THE HIGHWAY. My vehicle SLID SIDE WAYS and then tipped UP on its SIDE and slid SOME MORE.

That should make a case for rotating the tires every 5000 or whatever miles. They all have about the same ammount of tread and should all be replaced at the same time.

Hi, Specially in cold weather region like where I live. I can see less pressure fluctuation with N filled tires by monitoring with TPMS on the dash. N is not snake oil at least for me.

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