I'm requesting assistance in diagnosing an installation problem.
I purchased a genuine Ford security/remote start system
#1L3Z-19G354-CA to install in my 1999 F-150.
Using the installation guide, I then purchased from my local Ford
dealer the PATS interface kit. (The dealer looked up the part #.)
Other than getting myself into some unbelievable positions, I
completed the installation.
The testing procedures all checked out until I got to the section
(page 46) to program the PATS system.
There are 10 steps. (I'll repeat them here as a FYI.)
A. Sitting in the driver seat, be prepared to press the brake
pedal to shut down the remote starter system.
B. Using the first key, turn the ignition on, wait for the
security light to turn off and then turn the ignition key off.
C. Using the second key, turn the ignition on, wait for the
security light to turn off and then turn the ignition key off.
D. Press and hold start on the remote control transmitter for one
second. (The system should flash the parking lights and chirp the
siren/horn one time, pause for four seconds and then start then start
the engine.) The double "then start" is actually in the manual.
E. After the engine is started. Press the brake pedal to
shutdown the engine.
I assume that "security light" is the thief light on the engine
Anyway, steps A, B, and C are done OK. When step D is attempted the
parking lights don't flash and the siren/horn chirps TWICE. Nothing
There is no error codes list in the instructions. Since I didn't have
a FAX available (that appears the only way I could even attempt to
contact FORD about the problem), I decided to wait until I got back
Once home, I went through the steps again. This time the siren/horn
chirps 4 times.
Can someone provide me with hints as to the problem and a source of an
error code list?
This is going to be from memory - our store stopped installing these systems
about three years ago. With three local shops installing these things for
"peanuts" we could not compete price-wise and maintain a high quality
installation with a "factory intalled" look at the same time....
However, assuming that the correct courtesy light grouping was connected at
the time of installation I'm going to ask if the programming was done with
the drivers door open or closed.... (again, this is a memory thing) - IIRC,
the drivers door must be closed when programming the transmitters for PATS.
If you have been attempting this step with the door closed - try it with the
door open (that pesky memory thing again)..
Thanks for the tip.
I also thought of the door question. I was sure that I had done the
test both ways, but, never-the-less, I repeated the test again this
morning. I did it both ways - door open and door closed. No
I really suspect that one or more of the clip connector splices that I
used isn't making good contact.
I just not agile enough to spend a lot of hours checking each
connection. Yes, that may be necessary, but I was hoping for a hint
as to which circuit I should check first.
To clarify my ordinal post, all of the installation tests prior to the
PATS test went correctly. I did have a missing connection on the key
sense, but that has been fixed and is working OK.
This likely has no bearing on it.... just looking for food for "thought"...
Did you hook up the starter lockout to disable the starter or just tie into
the starter wire?
For testing circuit connections, if you can pull the rmote start module out
far enough, you can test inputs and outputs with a test light to ensure that
they are all connected. I'd suggest back-probing the connectors to avoid
spreading any pins.... With the module connected (don't forget that the hood
needs to be closed) you can check to see what outputs from the module may be
missing with a test light.... With the remote start module disconnected, you
can use the diagram at the end of the instruction sheet to test the
"enablers" - some may be postive input and others will be negative input
with your test light.
Question not asked.... after the PATS programming, does the theft light
prove out or does it flash rapidly?
FWIW, even on the corporate website, Ford hasn't given us any
troubleshooting guides or tips that aren't included in the installation
First of all, Thanks for the reply.
In reverse order, I'll answer your questions.
The theft light remains OFF, once the 2 key insertions and the start
button is pushed. (I tried it again this afternoon, just to make
re: suggestions for testing, I'll try that in the morning, when it is
cooler. I live in the desert of Arizona and it still gets warm (that
isn't really the correct word - Hot would be better.)
re the starter interrupt. I'm not sure what I accomplished, what I
did was follow the step by step instructions. I'll retype them here
step 4.0 Identify the ignition switch wiring harness.
4.1 Remove any harness wrap and identify the starter wire. (see wire
and color chart) My Case: red/blue (red with blue tracer positive
polarity) #12 gauge wire.
4.2 Use test procedure A, rotate ignition key to start position (DO
NOT allow engine to start. If it does start, turn it off immediately).
Start Position - 12 v
All Other Positions -0v
Return ignition key back to OFF position. My Case: this was OK
4.3 (1) Cut Starter wire in Half, (2) Attempt to start engine.
Starter should not engage. My Case: it didn't attempt to start.
4.4 If vehicle is not equipped with PATS, Plug four way connector from
starter interlock relay(F) into connector on back of module (A). My
Case: not applicable as I have PATS
4.5 Strip the cut ends of the starter wire and butt splice (K) the
White/Red (#&@) wire from the wire harness (d) to the "KEY" side of
the vehicle starter wire. My Case: I assumed that the KEY side would
have been the wire headed up to the steering column.
Butt splice (K) the White (#T3) wire from the wire harness (D) and
White wire from the Interlock relay (F) to the "MOTOR" side of the
vehicle starter wire. My Case: Again I assume that the MOTOR side is
the wire heading to the engine compartment.
5.0 Identify ignition wire(s) (See wire color and location chart).
My Case: blue/green
5.1 Use test procedure A, rotate ignition key through all positions.
ACC and OFF position - 0 v
IGN position -12v
START position - 12v
Return key back to OFF position. MY Case: OK
5.2 Connect the Light Blue (#13) wire from harness (D) to the vehicle
ignition wire. My Case: OK
Ford Note: Some FORD vehicles require a second ignition connection to
operate properly during remote start. Refer to the wire color and
location chart to determine if vehicle requires a second ignition
connectyion. If required, repeat steps 5.0 and 5.1 to identify and
verify second ignition wire. Then follow step 5.3 to make connection.
If not required, skip ahead to step 6.0.
My Case: This may be the problem area. My F-150 is 1999 model,
however the Wire Color and Location Chart only went back to model year
2001. The chart for that model didn't show a wire color for a second
ignition wire. If it had, the instructions were to connect the Blue
(T4) from the harness (D) to the vehicle's second ignition wire. Also,
there was a note that: Prior to remote starting the vehicle, set
option #2, option bank #2 to "Ignition" (LED off). I tried option
both on and off.
Three of the other vehicles listed in the Color chart had second
ignitions, but none made any correlation with the F-150 color codes.
If you (or someone) can supply me with the second ignition wire color
I would be most grateful.
PS, I'm a retired radio engineer. Automobile wiring really isn't my
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