REQ. Help with remote/start system installation

This is going to be from memory - our store stopped installing these systems about three years ago. With three local shops installing these things for "peanuts" we could not compete price-wise and maintain a high quality installation with a "factory intalled" look at the same time....

However, assuming that the correct courtesy light grouping was connected at the time of installation I'm going to ask if the programming was done with the drivers door open or closed.... (again, this is a memory thing) - IIRC, the drivers door must be closed when programming the transmitters for PATS. If you have been attempting this step with the door closed - try it with the door open (that pesky memory thing again)..

HTH

Thanks for the tip.

I also thought of the door question. I was sure that I had done the test both ways, but, never-the-less, I repeated the test again this morning. I did it both ways - door open and door closed. No difference.

I really suspect that one or more of the clip connector splices that I used isn't making good contact.

I just not agile enough to spend a lot of hours checking each connection. Yes, that may be necessary, but I was hoping for a hint as to which circuit I should check first.

To clarify my ordinal post, all of the installation tests prior to the PATS test went correctly. I did have a missing connection on the key sense, but that has been fixed and is working OK.

Thanks again.

Bob

This likely has no bearing on it.... just looking for food for "thought"... Did you hook up the starter lockout to disable the starter or just tie into the starter wire?

For testing circuit connections, if you can pull the rmote start module out far enough, you can test inputs and outputs with a test light to ensure that they are all connected. I'd suggest back-probing the connectors to avoid spreading any pins.... With the module connected (don't forget that the hood needs to be closed) you can check to see what outputs from the module may be missing with a test light.... With the remote start module disconnected, you can use the diagram at the end of the instruction sheet to test the "enablers" - some may be postive input and others will be negative input with your test light.

Question not asked.... after the PATS programming, does the theft light prove out or does it flash rapidly?

FWIW, even on the corporate website, Ford hasn't given us any troubleshooting guides or tips that aren't included in the installation booklet....

First of all, Thanks for the reply.

In reverse order, I'll answer your questions.

The theft light remains OFF, once the 2 key insertions and the start button is pushed. (I tried it again this afternoon, just to make sure.)

re: suggestions for testing, I'll try that in the morning, when it is cooler. I live in the desert of Arizona and it still gets warm (that isn't really the correct word - Hot would be better.)

re the starter interrupt. I'm not sure what I accomplished, what I did was follow the step by step instructions. I'll retype them here for clarity.

step 4.0 Identify the ignition switch wiring harness.

4.1 Remove any harness wrap and identify the starter wire. (see wire and color chart) My Case: red/blue (red with blue tracer positive polarity) #12 gauge wire. 4.2 Use test procedure A, rotate ignition key to start position (DO NOT allow engine to start. If it does start, turn it off immediately). Start Position - 12 v All Other Positions -0v Return ignition key back to OFF position. My Case: this was OK 4.3 (1) Cut Starter wire in Half, (2) Attempt to start engine. Starter should not engage. My Case: it didn't attempt to start. 4.4 If vehicle is not equipped with PATS, Plug four way connector from starter interlock relay(F) into connector on back of module (A). My Case: not applicable as I have PATS 4.5 Strip the cut ends of the starter wire and butt splice (K) the White/Red (#&@) wire from the wire harness (d) to the "KEY" side of the vehicle starter wire. My Case: I assumed that the KEY side would have been the wire headed up to the steering column.

Butt splice (K) the White (#T3) wire from the wire harness (D) and White wire from the Interlock relay (F) to the "MOTOR" side of the vehicle starter wire. My Case: Again I assume that the MOTOR side is the wire heading to the engine compartment.

5.0 Identify ignition wire(s) (See wire color and location chart). My Case: blue/green 5.1 Use test procedure A, rotate ignition key through all positions. ACC and OFF position - 0 v IGN position -12v START position - 12v Return key back to OFF position. MY Case: OK 5.2 Connect the Light Blue (#13) wire from harness (D) to the vehicle ignition wire. My Case: OK

Ford Note: Some FORD vehicles require a second ignition connection to operate properly during remote start. Refer to the wire color and location chart to determine if vehicle requires a second ignition connectyion. If required, repeat steps 5.0 and 5.1 to identify and verify second ignition wire. Then follow step 5.3 to make connection. If not required, skip ahead to step 6.0.

My Case: This may be the problem area. My F-150 is 1999 model, however the Wire Color and Location Chart only went back to model year

2001. The chart for that model didn't show a wire color for a second ignition wire. If it had, the instructions were to connect the Blue (T4) from the harness (D) to the vehicle's second ignition wire. Also, there was a note that: Prior to remote starting the vehicle, set option #2, option bank #2 to "Ignition" (LED off). I tried option both on and off.

Three of the other vehicles listed in the Color chart had second ignitions, but none made any correlation with the F-150 color codes.

If you (or someone) can supply me with the second ignition wire color I would be most grateful.

Thanks again, Bob

PS, I'm a retired radio engineer. Automobile wiring really isn't my thing.