Synthetic Motor Oil?

We have a contour and manual says it could go 5000 between oil changes. I have a hard time going 5000 mile between changes since I've always done my own changes at 3000. as you know the new cars & imports could go 5000 - 7500 between changes. Since I'm not totally at ease using conventional oil to do this I wanted to know if there is any problem changing from conventional to Synthetic? The car has 30000 miles and has been broke in on Castrol conventional oil and we had been changing at 3000 but we are thinking about making the switch so we could extend to 5000 between changes. I'd appreciate any feedback I could get on this.

Thanks in advance,

Joe

Reply to
Joe
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Go for Mobile 1. There should be no problem with extending the oil changes to 5000 mi between changes.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

Your car has low enough mileage to convert to synthetic with no problem. I also recommend Mobil1. I also recommend going to max vehicle recommendation change interval as recommended for conventional oil (typically 7500 miles), but using synthetic with no concern. (FYI-My BMW recommends 16,000 miles between synthetic oil changes.) I have a 1987 Taurus with 145K on the clock that has been on synthetic since new. My rule has been 7500 miles, or 1 year, which ever came first. The car still does not burn a drop of oil, although at this age is starting to leak some, but not enough to need to add any between changes!

Reply to
Keith B. Silverman

Snip////

What is the general notion about mileage? I've got a 97 T-Bird 4.6 with

100 K on it that runs like a dream. Started with Kendall, switched to Valvoline Race 20-50 at around 30K. Been wondering if it would be wise to switch to Mobil 1.

Frank

Reply to
`F.H

While most say it's OK to convert at any time, I do not always agree. If there is any sludge build-up in the engine, the synthetic will try to clean it out and it will all end up circulating around. Heard of a story (have no idea if it's true) where someone converted to synthetic with a high mileage car and because all the sludge got loosened up, it ended up plugging some oil passages and they blew out the rod bearings due to lack of lubrication.

Just my opinion and a story.

Reply to
Keith B. Silverman

While Dino DOES build up a layer inside the engine, you should have no trouble with the clean-up if the oil has been changed anywhere near the regular schedule.

If you are worried about that, change the filter in the first 500- 1000 miles, leave the oil for 3000 the first time. Then go for the longer duration IF you run the engine over 30 minutes in one trip/week, which will boil off condensation and prevent sludge.

Synth WILL clean up the inside of your engine

As far as the synth finding leaks... it wont find any that arent already there.

Mobil 1 only... Castrol is NOT really synthetic ("hydrocracked petrol. based"!!!? - ptuuui) and costs about the same.

There's lots of threads on this in this group in the google archives... most just say whats been said here

Purolator Pure One filter

Keith B. Silverman opined in news:gdR4b.100028$ snipped-for-privacy@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net:

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

OK, Mobil 1 looks good...the car call for 5-30w and the local vendor looks like they only have it in 10-30w,, with winter on it's way what do you think?

Reply to
Joe

I have a practice of (this oughta bring some response) of adding a half quart of trany fluid to my oil and letting it idle for about 15 minutes before each change. Based on a suggestion by an old timer before there was synthetics. From what I can see peeking through the valve cover it looks clean.

Reply to
`F.H

Joe opined in news:rJS4b.6203$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrddc02.gnilink.net:

5w-30 But if it doesnt get below 10F where you live, 10w should be okay.

"Local Vendor"?!!!!!!

Everyone around here - central ohio- that sells oil sells Mobil 1. Look around at discount stores... Meijer (if you have them) often have it on sale.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

`F.H opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net:

Yeah... and before that they used kerosene.

But if you use a true synth, there's no need to "flush".

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Reply to
AZGuy

Reply to
AZGuy

Mobil 0W-30 covers it all and Mobil Corporation is quite clear when they say that their synthetic oils are completely compatible with conventional oil and that you can switch whenever you please. Check their web site.

Reply to
Zip Disk

yes, it's mostly city driving, some highway, but very little.

Reply to
Joe

Go to Target, Walmart, Kmart or Sam's Club. They should have it.

Reply to
Jeff

Hey, an oil change at Wal-Mart using Mobil 1 and whatever filter they have that day is just $29.00. Try buying the oil for that price! Plus, they dispose of the old oil...not a bad deal in SoCal.

Reply to
Reece Talley

At target, the oil is $3.50/QT or $5.00/QT depending on which target you go to (Targets are about 100 km apart).

The only problem is that the Walmart filter of the day may be of poor quality. Of course you can get a Wix filter at an auto parts store (including NAPA which rebrands it as NAPA) and bring it with you for a few bucks more.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff

Actually, you can't go wrong using the $2.97 (USD) MOTORCRAFT oil filters(probably a Purolator unit) from WalMart on your FORD... even the $1.97 "Tech 2000" filters appear to have better construction than the Frams...

Rob

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Reply to
Trainfan1

So far, the WM filter has either been a Fram or an Autolite, both of which are just fine in my book.

Reply to
Reece Talley

I meant Motorcraft not Autolite

Reply to
Reece Talley

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