Won't Start - checked these things - ECM suspected?

addendum per Stan's suggestion:

I put the fuel pump relay back in it's socket, used my multimeter to test the tan/lt grn wire for any movement when I turned the key in the 'run' position (not cranking). Flatline, it never moved.

red

Yes, I did crank it over Scott (after I knew the pump could run hotwired). It will only run hotwired, actually. Thanks, Sharon

What color wire ?

Did you have the relay installed when you did this test? The relay must be installed to measure the voltage on the tan/lt grn wire. Was your multimeter set to ohm's or DC volts? Stan

With the ignition turned on, do you have 12 volts at the red wire going to the fuel pump relay? (There should be)

if so

If you ground the tan/lt green wire at the the EEC self test connector, does the engine run? (this will mimmic what the ECM does to ground the fuel pump relay, which is; pulls that side of the relay winding to ground)

Just for clarification, did you try to start it when you knew the pump is running? Does the pump ONLY run when you hot-wire it? It sould run for a few seconds when you turn on the key. Then it should run when cranking.....Is this the case?

the fuel pump >relay? (There should be)

Yes there is +12.

does the engine run? (this will mimmic what the ECM does to ground the fuel pump relay, which is; pulls that side of the relay winding to ground)

I actually stripped the insulation off of the tan/lt grn wire to get a good connection for the alligator clip. I clipped the other side to the ground at the self tester. Car will not start. Cranks, but no gas. I even tried inserting a bare wire into that ground connection to make sure I was getting a good metal to metal connection. Still, no start. There are already two wires that are tan lt/grn coming into that tester. I would think they make the ground ok. I am going to try one other thing. Nope, that didn't work either. I tried grounding the ground off the self test plug. Just to make sure IT was grounded. Then I tried doing a straight ground off the tan/lt grn wire on the relay. Still nothing.

Any other suggestions? Thanks for helping. Take Care, Sharon

Stan, just to let you know, the insulation was bad on the red wire in the beginning. That wire is reading fine on the DC setting of the multimeter. Thanks, Sharon

I haven't tried that. Is it safe to try? I would be concerned that it would be getting a steady flow of gas instead of a pulsing flow Thomas. Thanks and take care, Sharon

I just went out and tried to start the car, several times. Then I went to the self test connector and hooked it up with a paper clip. No flashes of the engine light. So, even though this car cannot start, IT thinks it is just fine. LOL "A better Ford idea!" Thanks and take care, Sharon

Thomas I have done the ECM test you told me to do several different ways for grounding. I got no reading on the multimeter on any of them (see below). I also tried a quickie of jumping a wire from the self test connector for the fuel pump to ground to see if I could force the usual with that (pump runs constantly) and nothing happened. I have no codes in the self test connector itself. Something is definitely not working right in this wiring. But, with these schematics, I can't be sure what connects where. There are some fusible links along the path, but they are on opposite side of that circuit.

I am going to make an assumption on that wiring diagram that the red wire is the line in on the primary line and the tan/lt grn wire is going out

Too dark to do this tonight, but I can tell you that it will most likely work. I have already jumpered the yellow to orange wire with the relay out and hotwired it to the positive battery terminal. The pump ran like a charm each time I touched the jumper to the battery terminal. And since the car does start (if I put starter fluid in the intake from the air filter), I think it is safe to make the assumption that injecting it with gas will start it too. This seems like a duplication of the efforts I have already made.

I have used the word 'cranked' so much, because that is exactly what it is doing. If you look back on all of my posts, the only time I said the car 'started' was when I sprayed in the starter fluid. It started up like a charm. I have already been told the difference between 'run' and 'start' positions on the ignition by this NS, and told to use the terms properly; which I certainly hope I have since then. But I gotta tell you, I am using 'crank' because that is exactly what it is doing. It cranks, but doesn't start or run or chug along. If there is a word I should be using for that instead, you guys better tell me! LOL

Take Care, Sharon

Sounds like either the red wire or tan/lt grn wire is not conected to the relay. It could also be a bad relay but I don't think so. I would test the relay just to be sure it is good. Take the relay out of the socket and put +12 volt on the conector that would go to the red wire and then ground the conector that would go to the tan/lt grn wire and it should click. Stan

No, it is not. There are more terminals on it (5 vs. 4) and it is black and grey, but it is the part number that both PartsAmerica and AutoZone show for my car and cross reference to the old part number.

I couldn't agree with you more, that is why I took the original 'new relay' back to AutoZone and went through all their info. They swear that the extra terminal is not used.

Take Care, Sharon

I have nothing when I turn it to run only. There is nothing coming out of that wire. I think I reported that in another message. Take Care, Sharon

Yes it's safe. The pump isn't supposed to pulse, once the relay closes it stays closed until you shut the engine off. Bob

Its ok, the pump runs the whole time the engine runs, no "pulse".

OK, I looked at the diagram, at the relay. Using a12 volt test light. Yellow wire- should have 12 volts all the time, check it while cranking the engine too. If it does have 12 volts all the time, remove the relay. With a jumper wire, jump from the yellow to the orange wire. The pump should run and the car should start. Please dont say cranks over if you mean running. Cranks is the starter cranking the engine, starts is the engine actually running. If it starts, then say it runs or it starts. Sorry but it can get confusing. Post back with your results. Maybe if we do this one step at a time we can firgure it out.