2001 f150 odometer delay in turning on display

I forgot to add I only have 76k miles on the truck.

Is the display blank only when you start the truck or does it blink in and out occassionally while the truck is running? I just disassembled my dash on my 99 F150 XLT so I could resolder the circuit board where the connector joins on. Common problem on many F150's from that time frame. Mine actually had 3 of the solder joints that were fractured. Total time to disassemble, fix and reassemble was about 30 minutes. If yours is only blank when you start up though it may not be the same problem.

Cheers, Lawrence

only when I start up. I never saw it blank out while I was driving. Does removing the cluster trigger the PATS? or as long as I reinstall the cluster before starting, I will be ok?

Rocky, Possibly unrelated, but check your fuses. I had a similar problem with my '00 Mustang GT. All gauges non operating for a few seconds after start up. Fuse that repaired the problem is labeled for an option the car doesn't have.

bradtx

You probably don't have the same problem as me then. Removing the cluster won't affect the PATS. At least as far as I know it doesn't.

Cheers, Lawrence

today was the first time the odmeter wouldn't display until I slapped the top of the dash over the cluster. Sounds like bad solder - I think Ford should have a warrany on this - how can they allow an odemeter not to display on a 2001? Any suugestions on where can I check to see if an XLT cluster will work in an XL? Rocky

If it's bad solder, why not pull the cluster and check it out. bad solder joint will be dull in appearance. Good one will be very shiny. You can 'fix" the bad ones by hitting them with a soldering iron and let it remelt.

Well, now it definitely sounds like you have some fractured solder joints. I can't see any problem subbing the XLT cluster for the XL one but it would be easier just to resolder the few joints. Not only will the bad ones look dull, you will see an actual crack around in the joint. A 3 second touch per solder joint with a soldering iron will cure everything. Much easier than contemplating a cluster swap which could possibly end up in a cluster f.... if you know what I mean ;-) I'm and electronics tech specializing in flight simulators myself and I do the odd job for freinds on the side and it seems lately that I have been making most of my repair moeny off bad solder joints. 4 stereo amps, 3 vcrs, two computers, and six tv sets in the past week alone. Is the industry standard for lapflowing solder getting that bad?

Cheers, Lawrence

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 17:57:32 -0500, Lawrence rearranged some electrons to form:

Lead-free (if it's new equipment). Do a search for RoHS.