E4od Deisel Electric problem trans slips

I have a F350 crew w/ 400k mile. I had the trans fixed 2 years ago and they said they put a new solenoid pack in. It went out again and I had it rebuilt last mont and now it slips out of gear in od. It chugs in and out when at slow drive and slips out and spins when driving. They put a box on to bypass the truck computer and it shifts fine. The codes 23, 62 67 14 come out and this from a clear box a month aho. Could plugging in my 110v heater have caused a ground short? Is this the solenoid or something else? will replacing the solenoid work?HELPI need to drive to work.Thanks

Reply to
Need Fix
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I have a 1993 F350 with a 7.3l diesel and an e4od, I'm on my 3rd tranny in 3 months, the first two I had rebuild by professionals and they both failed, the last one I rebuild myself and it's working perfectly. I also replaced the cooler with a larger one. I had a bad code for the tps switch which can screw up the shifting. I also replaced the mlp switch. It's possible the first two trannys would have been fine had I changed the switches and cooler to begin with. A very expensive experience.

Alan http://68.9.223.6:1300/!Some%20of%20my%20Equipment/1993%20Ford%20F350/

Reply to
Alan

Thanks for that I still need help

"Alan" wrote:

Reply to
<4door

four things to check:

Manual Lever Position Switch Cam Sensor (diesel) Throttle Position Sensor Coolant Temperature Sensor

Reply to
TransSurgeon

. . . E4od Deisel Electric problem trans slips Group: alt.trucks.ford Date: Sun, Feb 8, 2004, 2:29pm (CST+6) From: snipped-for-privacy@stopspamev1.net (Need=A0Fix)

I have a F350 crew w/ 400k mile. I had the trans fixed 2 years ago and they said they put a new solenoid pack in. It went out again and I had it rebuilt last mont and now it slips out of gear in od. It chugs in and out when at slow drive and slips out and spins when driving.

They put a box on to bypass the truck computer and it shifts fine.

The codes 23, 62 67 14 come out and this from a clear box a month aho. Could plugging in my 110v heater have caused a ground short? Is this the solenoid or something else? will replacing the solenoid work?HELPI need to drive to work.Thanks =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D What Gary said...(nobulltrans)

"If"....the tranny shifts ok with the shift box hooked up....then.....

Make sure the mlps is adjusted correctly on the tranny. (the electrical switch mounted at the shift lever)

Make sure the TPS is adjusted correctly. (the electrical switch mounted on the throttle lever)

If the ECU is being scanned "correctly", and codes 23, 62, and 67 are setting BEFORE the engine is ever started.......then these two items are either bad.....or not adjusted properly.

If the guy performing the scan .....had the shift lever in anything other than Park, and the codes were set BEFORE cranking the motor..... then you probly just got a bad TPS.

It's unlikely both went bad at the same time.... note....."unlilkely". It can happen, it's just not seen alot.

Bottom line.....be sure the guy using the scanner....KNOWS HOW TO USE IT!. Keep in mind....the tranny codes will set if the guy runs the codes with the selector NOT in the Park position, during the KOEO tests.

Either way...bother sensors can be purchased for around $100.

code 23.......TPS (throttle position sensor)

codes 62,67.....MLPS (multi lever position switch)

hopefully helpfull marsh monster ~:~ =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Reply to
Marsh Monster

could I have a bad ecm. If I disconnect the batt it functions corretly for a trip. Then slip again until rest the computerIs there a way to tell without the 150$ dealer test?

Reply to
needfix

You need to take a look here for the codes

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Looking at the codes, I think I would look closely a 14 but, the symptoms could be generated because of a bad signal from one or more of the others. The 62 converter slippage can be a result of a bad sensor input. I would start by testing for and repairing the external sensors before I downed it for a converter problem. I would think the total cost of all three sensors would be around $150US. Keep in mind that a sensor can give a bad signal because of some other problem. The $150 dealer test can be some of the cheapest diagnostic you find if the tech knows what he is doing. If I were to take a SWAG at it, I would go for the MLPS which is usuall called the neatral switch by many folks. The symptoms you describe are kinda characteristic of it being NFG. You should also go through the adjustment procedure for your TPS on the Diesel to make sure it is set correctly in case someone has set it too high trying to compensate for something else. There is a service bulletin out on the correct adjustment - I no longer have it available to me.

Reply to
lugnut

For everyone's information, Harbor Freight has an OBDII code reader on sale right now for $39.95. Beats the hell outa paying the dealers big money.

Reply to
Tyrone

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