oil pan

My oil pan gasket on my 91 Bronco full size 5.8L is starting to leak. I read my Chilton's manual. It says to unbolt exhaust, tranny crossmember, and hold the tranny up with a jack etc. Is there any easier way than having to unbolt the exhaust. I haven't been under there to see if its actually in the way. Or can I get it out with the crossmember attahced as well. Its an automatic as well, if that matters.

Reply to
Pfunk20000
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Good luck. If you find one let me know.

Mine leaks ('95, 5.8) and I have to disconnect the motor mounts, place a weight dispersing block of wood across the oil pan, jack it up, put a shim on each side of the engine, lower the jack, remove the header pipes and then remove the oil pan.

And there is no way that you can drop the pan without getting that header pipe out of the way. Maybe...just maybe, by removing the crossmember to the tranny you could take off the header bolts and drop the header down to where it would slide toward the rear about 4 or 5 inches. Be sure you put the jack far enough back on the transmission to allow for the header to move backward (they're mounted on those rubber hinges so it may be possible.

I'm not ambitious enough to tackle it yet. It's the original exhaust and is two pieces: headers + catalytic then muffler and tailpipe. Before I did anything I wanted to be sure I could remove the exhaust. I could get it loose but couldn't fully separate the parts due to the indentation in the pipes from the 'U' clamp.

I'd consider alternatives if anyone knows of any. I'd appreciate a follow-up on your plight.

Thanks.

Reply to
~Zaitsev

I ended up cutting off part of the header pipe at the Y before the converter. I also removed the 2 motor mounts, jacked up the motor a bit. I installed wood shims where the motor mounts are. I was maybe an inch away from getting the pan out. I was able to change the oil pump and gasket while it hung low enough. Maybe I didn't jack it up enough. I didnt touck the tranny crossmember, I didnt know if that would have given me enough room to slide the pan off or not. After I bolted the pan back up, and lowered the motor back. I filled with oil, next day I say a huge puddle of oil leaking from the front part of oil pan. There was about an inch hairline crack. I think it cracked there from the stress of the jacking. Even though the jack was on the lower rear side by the oil drain plug. I used a block of wood to disperse the weight. I gave up and took it to a shop, since I could never get the pan totally off. This time I HAD to take it off for that crack.

Reply to
Pfunk20000

In that instance I would have give old "J.B. Weld" a shot at fixing that crack.

Reply to
~Zaitsev

. . =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

=A0=A0I was maybe an inch away from getting the pan out. I was able to change the oil pump and gasket while it hung low enough. Maybe I didn't jack it up enough. I didnt touck the tranny crossmember, I didnt know if that would have given me enough room to slide the pan off or not. After I bolted the pan back up, and lowered the motor back. I filled with oil, next day I say a huge puddle of oil leaking from the front part of oil pan.

There was about an inch hairline crack.

I think it cracked there from the stress of the jacking. Even though the jack was on the lower rear side by the oil drain plug. I used a block of wood to disperse the weight.

I gave up and took it to a shop, since I could never get the pan totally off. This time I HAD to take it off for that crack. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (~Zaitsev)

In that instance I would have give old "J.B. Weld" a shot at fixing that crack. =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

I would have drained it again.....

and soldered it.

but then again... i don't worry the small stuff so much as most folks, things like little fires and all.

MarshMonster ~:~ =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Reply to
Marsh Monster

It would be mighty hard to beat JB Weld. I've used that stuff and after it sets you can even put a grinder on it.

I wonder if I took mine to Midas or someone if they could cut the pipe in front of the catalytic converter and put a spacer/adapter on it?

The exhaust is original but is rock solid and I'd hate to have to have it carved up and replaced just because it's in only two pieces. (See earlier post)

Ya think?

I was maybe an inch away from getting the pan out. I was able to change the oil pump and gasket while it hung low enough. Maybe I didn't jack it up enough. I didnt touck the tranny crossmember, I didnt know if that would have given me enough room to slide the pan off or not. After I bolted the pan back up, and lowered the motor back. I filled with oil, next day I say a huge puddle of oil leaking from the front part of oil pan.

There was about an inch hairline crack.

I think it cracked there from the stress of the jacking. Even though the jack was on the lower rear side by the oil drain plug. I used a block of wood to disperse the weight.

I gave up and took it to a shop, since I could never get the pan totally off. This time I HAD to take it off for that crack. ============ ============ snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (~Zaitsev)

In that instance I would have give old "J.B. Weld" a shot at fixing that crack. ============ ============

I would have drained it again.....

and soldered it.

but then again... i don't worry the small stuff so much as most folks, things like little fires and all.

MarshMonster ~:~ ======= =======

Reply to
~Zaitsev

I had thought about that before I ended up pulling the trans for other work. The problem with having a shop do anything is that this is a one piece header with cat converter and, they claim it is technically not legal for them to do anything to it unless repair is already needed. The work around was for me to do the cut where it needed to be to remove the left half of the header to allow removal of the oil pan. I could then have them make a sleeve a couple of inches long to rejoin the two parts when reinstalling the header. It could be clamped into place or taken to the shop to do a repair weld if needed. In Georgia, the pols have gotten pretty tough on shops that fool around with the exhaust system related to the cat or anything in front.

As far as the pan coming out, it will come out if you remove the upper intake which is not that big a deal and does not require draining the cooling system. This allows another inch or so for the engine to be lifted which is plenty. If you have a body lift kit, the upper intake is not a problem. Felpro makes an upper intake set that sells for under $6US at Advance Auto. I assume this compares to others.

Good luck

Lugnut

Reply to
lugnut

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