Transmission extension housing removal?

Should unbolt easily & come right off, if I remember correctly. The only hitch may be if the trans mount is on the tailshaft extension, in which case you'll just have to support the trans during your repair. It's best to use a press to install the new one. Test fit it over the driveshaft before you bolt it back together. Good luck.

R&R on the housing should be straight forward ( easy ) Jack up the trans , block it up , pull the rear mount( maybe cross member too ) , pull the speedo cable and anything else that's plugged into it ,put a drain pan under it , take it off . Before you do that though , you might want to take a really good look at the drive shaft for a slight bend and or missing balance weight . If this just "happened all of a sudden " vs " over time " think back to any incidents . Give the rear end yoke a couple of good yanks too . Any play in that can give you fits and doesn't "always" make the rear end scream . Haven't seen very many bushings go south and if it has,something is making that happen . Will

Ford Warrior wrote:

Nope, you wont find that tool at a Home Depot. I think the ones I have seen look like a little "L", that attach to a slide hammer (dent remover), etc. They are thin enough you can slip them past the seal and then tap the seal out. Similar with bushing.

You can probably order one that will work. SnapOn must have one, and even JC Whitney might have a cheap unit.

If I remember correctly, you can get the seal out and replaced with pretty low level tools alone. Are you sure you need to replace the bushing?

R&R on the housing should be straight forward ( easy ) Jack up the trans , block it up , pull the rear mount( maybe cross member too ) , pull the speedo cable and anything else that's plugged into it ,put a drain pan under it , take it off . Before you do that though , you might want to take a really good look at the drive shaft for a slight bend and or missing balance weight . If this just "happened all of a sudden " vs " over time " think back to any incidents . Give the rear end yoke a couple of good yanks too . Any play in that can give you fits and doesn't "always" make the rear end scream . Haven't seen very many bushings go south and if it has,something is making that happen . Will

Ford Warrior wrote:

Not exactly the answer u asked, but have u tried Auto Zone and Advance A/Parts to see if they have that tool in their tool-loaner program? Just a thought & hth, s

If you are talking about tears in the seal boot, that is not a big problem. Replacement seals do not have a boot like the original. For a one time bushing job, I would simply unbolt the rear mount, jack it up, remove the rear mount and remove the housing. Loss of fluid won't be much and you will be able drive out the old seal and bushing easily. The bushing can be reseated with a universal seal and bushing driver. Be sure to check the yoke for wear also. If you are getting driveline vibration for sure, you need to check the center support carefully. Also, if the U-joints were assembled too tight, that can cause a vibration if the vibration started after they were replaced. The pinion is also a source of vibration if the bearings are failing. Over the years, I have started to just have a local drive line shop do U-joints since they need to be rebalance about half the time after joint replacement. They replaced the center support bearing and all the U-joints along with a rebalance in my F150 shaft a few months ago for less than a hundred bucks with me laying the shaft on the counter.

Lugnut

Before you tear into it, check the driveshaft alignment. A misalignment of more than a few degrees will cause a resonance at a certain speed. Basically the yoke and the shaft going into the rear differential must be perfectly parallel.

Ted

If there were a misalignment between the differential and the yolk end, How would I correct this? I'm assuming in this case, driveshaft balancing or even buying a new driveshaft wouldn't fix the problem, right?

thanks Jay