thieves

It is only misinformation to those like you that obviously do not know the subject. If you do not wish to be enlightened you can look for "mike hunt" in the body to delete my posts. I always sign that way no matter from where I have connected to the NG's. Have a nice day.

mike hunt

WaterWatcher wrote:

I expect an answer like that from a guy that is all talk.. Then try it with a neighbors car. Get the VIN go to a dealership of that brand get a key cut and give him the key. If he will send me a notarized statement that the car started in front of the notary I'll send him the $500.

mike hunt

shiden_kai wrote:

Unfortunately, facts will not convince Mike. Even the fact that I work at a GM dealership and have witnessed numerous times how key codes are obtained....(which involves referencing the VIN) wouldn't convince him. Maybe I should take him up on his offer.

Ian

While the two numbers may be separate, obviously a very simple database cross-reference routine can easily be done to do match the two up.

I think you should.

I would thnk that any organization has a few people willing to be "on the take" for something like this. The mistake car manufactures have made was in cross referencing the key and security codes with the VIN number. Once that is done, then it opens up all sorts of opportunity for people with nefarious intent.

Naturally it was likely done to improve service. But....

Even if you won I doubt he would pay. But if you look at the bet he was making he is already trying to weasel out of the original discussion. He wants the key to be able to start the car. That means he would pick a key that uses a security chip that needs to be programmed to the vehicle. But the original topic was only whether or not you could get a key cut from the vin # which we know is possible. So if you take the bet the key would only need to work in the ignition switch if the key. Just watch he twists things around, he is a weasel.

You are in fact wrong. Every manufacturer keeps a database of their vehicles, and the VIN is the identifier for each record in the database. With the VIN, a manufacturer (or a dealership for that manufacturer) can determine your car's installed options, its in-service date, the name and last known address of its owner (or at least the first owner), any recalls that need to be performed or have already been performed, whether the car has been flagged by a dealer as having its warranty voided (i.e. for using Nitrous), and of course, how to cut new keys.

Your experience, mike, will tell you that the VIN is issued prior to the completion of the build, and therefore the VIN is useless in determining all of that information. And you're right in the sense that the number ITSELF doesn't contain all of those identifiers. But unfortuantely, you are conveniently ignoring the fact that the VIN doesn't NEED to innately contain these parameters... all the VIN has to do is act as a record number on a computer database.

Mike, you're just splitting hairs now. The OP clearly said he went to the dealer and provided them with the VIN. It only takes simple common sense to know that they used the VIN to look up the appropriate record, and fashion a new key.

And how is his neighbor going to enforce the agreement if you reneg?

By the way: a duplicate key at the local car dealership for any PassLock II-equipped car is a mere $1.85 at the parts department at my local Chevy dealer. And the duplicates look *exactly* like the originals, with black hard rubber molding, GM emblems and all.

Fortunately, they DID require that if I couldn't show them I had at least one original key in my possession, that I show them proof of ownership (I assume the reasoning is that if I have a working key already, then I must already have the car as well). And no, they didn't use the key I had to make the copy, though they did compare the finished key with the original to make sure they matched up, save of course for wear and tear.

I'd make him sign a contract to that effect first.

Sorry to butt into a pissing match with some facts. But, several years ago, my wife, who had already lost her set of keys to my '96 Lumina, misplaced my set of keys (car was for sale in our driveway).

I ended up going to the local Chevy dealer, who told me in advance that they needed the VIN, a copy of the title, and a photo ID.

When I went to the parts desk, they called an GM 800-number and entered my VIN. A few minutes later, a fax came through referencing the correct key to use (PASS-KEY) and the codes to cut it. 5 minutes later, I paid the cashier $20 and was on my way with replacement keys, which worked just fine in the car.

So yes, there definitely is a database at GM which matches VIN and key codes. The VIN itself doesn't contain the codes.

If you could find a dealer that didn't require the title and photo ID, and all you had was the VIN, it seems screamingly obvious that you can get a key for someone's car where you just had the VIN, and that the key could start the car.

Of course, if you had a new Ford, Toyota, or Nissan, you wouldn't even need the key:

The key code is not printed on the invoice, if it is the dealership recorded it there, not the manufacture. Why would a dealer give the invoice to a customer in any event?

mike hunt

Dennis Smith wrote:

In our business we too work for GM, and just about every other manufacture. You have yet to tell us how the information that is record in the VIN would reveal the key code. Please tell us with digit or series of digits reveal the key code.

mike hunt

shiden_kai wrote:

You can chose to believe what or whomever you wish. The original post stated;

the VIN # from the label on the >dash, go to the local car dealership and request a >duplicate key based on the VIN #.

I said that is BS and this is still the fact. Knowing the VIN going to a dealer will NOT get the thief your vehicle, period. Those are the facts everything else posted on this subject has been opinion or conjecture.

mike hunt

Isaiah Beard wrote:

Thats simple. The "sequential number of the production" is unique to your car. I believe that is what they use to tell if the car has recalls on it, to find out what options it has, etc etc, so it is entirely plausible that they have the key code on it as well.

...or someone "working on the inside"

Good idea!!