90 XJ Won't start low (15psi) fuel pressure

It all started when I smelled gas, a look under the hood revealed some gas leaking where #1 injector enters the intake. I replaced all o rings in the rail, it wouldn't start. a depressed shraider valve showed low pressure in the rail so I replaced the regulator still low pressure and no start. I installed a new pump, still no start. I purchased a gauge and after turning on the key it shows about 15psi and bleeds down to

0psi in a few seconds. I have pinched off the return line and it still only gets to 15psi with a fast bleed down. I have turned the key off and on 5 or 6 times with the same result. The pump comes on for about 5 seconds every time I cycle the key. Every thing I have read points to a faulty check valve in the pump, did I get a bad one off the shelf?
Reply to
JRK58
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Sounds like a leak between the rail and the fuel pump!

So did you check the level of fuel in the gas tank? Could it be that the fuel pump leaks out fuel at it's output hose?

************** New Hose????? ************ Clamp on tight? Do you have good power going to the fuel pump? How is that ballast resistor near the air cleaner box?

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Thanks for your reply, yes I have fuel but I didn't think to check the upper clamp and I didn't change the hose. The pump does fire up ok and I did clean the connectors on the ballast but that wouldn't cause the fast leak down would it?.Thanks again, I will be checking that hose connection tommorrow.

Reply to
JRK58

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Reply to
JRK58

Well it was a loose hose at the pump, I now have 36 psi and it holds for hours but the darn thing still won't start, everything is hooked up right. I did a full tune up and changed the CPS and it still won't start. It does fire a few times but thats it, any suggestions?

Reply to
JRK58

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Yes, it does fire when turning over just not enough to start.

Reply to
JRK58

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Double checked and by the book, I have a new thread going please read it.Thanks for your reply

Reply to
JRK58

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Yes that is exactly how my manual shows it, but on my jeep the screws are between 6&2 and 1&5 not 1&4 and 3&6.Thanks

Reply to
JRK58

You may have to bleed the air out of the fuel rail.

It might be that the injectors are not opening. You can hear them click open and close with the engine cranking if they are working. Some use a meter to hook to the injector plug to see if you get electricity and ground.

Check to see if you possibly forgot to hook up any ground wires or plugs.

I will assume that you only changed the CPS when it did not want to start?????

Maybe too much fuel getting into the cylinders. Maybe the ign. coil is weak.

Compression, Ignition/Spark and Fuel are the three needed items. What is wrong with these 3 things?

Later, dave AKA vwdoc1

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Thanks for solving my low fuel pressure problem Dave. I changed the CPS because I had one in my toolbox and have suffered from an intermittent no start, it never left me stranded as it would always start with a max

20 min wait. I have spark ( a bright blue) from the coil, I have gas (maybe to much not sure). I have tried the jumper (block to - batt.). It sounds a bit different cranking than it did before, with a strong battery it doesn't seem to turn as fast and there is a bigger drain on my battery, it fires at the begining of the crank a few times and then nothing.
Reply to
JRK58

A rotten ground strap wire from the engine head to the firewall can/will cause no start.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

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Reply to
Mike Romain

You have the wires on wrong!

The distributor only fits in one way and the firing order 'only' works the way the book shows. The timing is computer controlled with no distributor movement allowed. (without breaking something anyway)

You need to verify the top dead center on the compression stroke for #1 cylinder and look to see where the rotor is pointing to see if someone actually did manage to somehow screw up installing the distributor.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@MSN.COM wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

I should have said it ran great when I parked it, I haven't done anything with the distributor, just changed the cap and rotor. The #1 is marked on the cap and is in the same position as the book it's just the screws that are in a different position. I have to admit that when it's turning over it does sound like the plug wires are wrong but I have double checked them and when I replaced them it was one at a time. Thanks for the reply

Reply to
JRK58

I did bleed the air off, my gauge has a relief valve. The plugs are wet so the injectors are opening. I'm gonna work on it tonight after work. Thanks for the excellent advice.........JK

Reply to
JRK58

Strange....

I would be pulling plug #1 to see if it is indeed at top dead center when the rotor is pointing to that #1 on the cap.

I have a funny feeling someone has managed to clock the distributor off a bit.....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@MSN.COM wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

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