brakes

Did you hit a large bump and bend the rotors?

Probally overheats them and runs through water.

This is extremely common and is normally caused by putting the tires on with an impact gun. They are supposed to be finished up with a torque wrench.

You can buy torque wrenches for under $30.00 that are good for finishing wheel lug nuts or making sure the tire change pricks aren't trying to sucker you.

It would seem one of the latest scams by some $tealerships is to get you in for a 'free' tire rotation, hammer the wheels on with an impact gun and sucker you for a brake job.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

......is this a common problem .....don't want to turn

pulsating as in ABS kicking on, or pulsating as in drag/release/drag/release?

If it's ABS then have them check the front sensors, one is either out of range or close to it.

If it's drag/release (warped rotor) then it may be a MFG defect. Long as your under waranty I'd have them diagnose it.

If the finding is warped rotor, and you have to go out of pocket to fix it, your better off buying new rotors and installing them yourself. It's not a hard job. Basically, if you can change a tire you can replace a rotor. It's just two more bolts.

5000 miles is obviously too early to be having to deal with problems like this. But your dealer will tell you that rotors are 'wear items', not covered under warranty. but it is worth a try to see if they will cover it.

I would not turn a warped rotor. Every time I have tried it, I get > my '06 tj with 5000 miles on it .....and the brakes are pulsating

I agree that it is extremely common, but not that it is "caused" by the impact gun. I have barely six thousand miles on a set of new rotors, and they are already pulsating a bit, along with Autozone "lifetime" pads. I put the wheels on with a torque wrench, of course. Maybe I drove the vehicle in the rain, or made a panic stop or two, but what the hell are you supposed to do?

Earle

proper brake-in (pun intended) is key to long brake life.

The procedure is basically a series of increasingly quicker stops from increasing speed, followed by a drive to allow the disc to cool.

What you want to avoid with new brakes is to run hard, stop hard, then sit there at the light with your foot on the brake. That traps a lot of heat under the pad and will start the warping process.

Any competent mechanic should have a set ot torque sticks.

wouldn't use them on an aluminum Porsche hub, but for iron they are great. If you want to be finicky, use the next lower range and then torque by hand.

Hi Earle, Agreed, Daimler's composite rotors and weak hubs are the problem. I've slammed thousand of wheels on the Real American cars, and trucks without a problem! God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

......is this a common problem .....don't want to turn

drag/release/drag/release?

Good article. I was reading the latest JC Whitney motorcycle catalog at lunch. During the week I had, among other things, relined 25 sets of vintage Lotus race car brake shoes with NOS Ferrodo asbestos linings. This stuff is nearly impossible to find and prized by vintage racers. The catalog shows brake shoes and pads, "made with non-asbestos low friction linings to avoid sqeaking". Low friction brake linings? For those times when you really don't want to stop? What next, high friction oil?

I don't know if Jeep has learned anything useful from Mercedes, but my 300TD uses soft nodular iron rotors that should be replaced rather than turned. They seldom make it thru a second set of pads without warping, but they are cheap, designed to be sacrificed. They can be bought for as low as $17.30 each.

Kaleco's cross drilled brake lines.

They don't have high friction brake oil, but I'm willing to bet they would carry it. :)

'If' they will warranty it, get new rotors.

One other 'scam' reported is to 'fix' it free under warranty by turning it so when it runs out of warranty there is no turning left and you them must replace it on your dime.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Thanks for all the info.....this is the first jeep I've owned...I really like it ....I have owned chysler produts for a long time.....my dad retired from there and my brother still works there.....again thank you