Detroit EZ Locker or Powertrax Lockright locker?

It's not a big deal to replace the differential carrier. Of the four crucial measurements, two are already done, unless you are replacing the ring and pinion at the same time. You only have to set the carrier bearing preload and the lash at the ring gear. If you use a carrier replacement locker, "expense or bother" translates into increased strength.

Putting it into a D44, you are not really "asking for trouble", unless you plan to use the D44 near the limits of its capability. Then you really need a carrier replacement.

Earle

Glenn, a rear locker is always working through a boatload of torque from the engine so you want a well behaved locker back there. The EZ-Locker is pretty rough and the Powetrax Lockrite isn't that much better. For the rear, because you want an easily installed lunchbox style, I'd go for the Powertrax No-Slip locker instead as it's much better behaved in the rear. It unlocks a tad easier than either of the other two do which means it'll be more pleasant to drive with.

In the front it doesn't matter much, the EZ-Locker and Lockrite would be fine. But in the rear, I'd definitely go for the Powertrax No-Slip.

These two units are nearly identical. They are so much the same that there was a lawsuit over patent infringement.

I'm not sure that puting one of these light-duty units in a heavy-duty D44 is a good plan though. I have a full Detroit in my AMC20, and the LockRight unit in my D30, up front. I've never had any trouble with either unit, and I beat the crap out of both of them every chance I get -- this was daily for about 3 years.

I'm not sure, but I think you can get the full Detroit for your D44 without a carrier change. Carriers come with new gear ratios, not traction devices.

Jeff, I'm confused by what you wrote since I know that you know that a Detroit Locker is a full case locker that replaces the carrier. The R&P's back lash must be set up from scratch if a Detroit Locker is installed since it does replace the carrier.

Jerry

Apparently, I'm confused too. :-0

Back lash and preload, both. Easy, compared with pinion depth.

Earle

thanks for your input guys, after looking up the Powertrax web site, the No Slip locker sounds pretty good, little dearer but not too much. I really don't have the tools or equipment to check pre load or anything else to set up a full locker and I don't trust or like paying mechanics to work on my baby haha. The drive line in my Jeep is pretty much stock 232 inline six, three speed, so I'm not too worried about maximum strength. thanks again Glenn

Inline 6, 3-spd trans, and a D44? Are you sure? Something sounds wrong, or custom. But if custom, why go custom with a 3 spd? Something sounds wrong.

Thats the specs on my export 2001 TJ Renegade..... I am in New Zealand = and back in 2001, all we got was 3spd auto (4 spd came later).

TW

--------- '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44

mechanics to=20

IIRC all the export TJ's had rear Dana 44's

TW

--------- '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44

well I don't know, as far as I know my Jeep is stock standard, I'm in Australia so unless the spec here is different to the U.S which I kinda doubt, it's a 1974 CJ5, 232 inline six, 3 speed manual, Dana model 20 transfer case and Dana44 rear diff, Dana30 front diff. The only mods I have done are 2 inches of suspension lift, one inch body lift, and 33 inch tires and power steering.

Duh, 3-spe AUTO. I assumed manual.

I guess that cements the meaning of "assume". The D44 with a 3-spd auto makes perfect sense.

I think that by now, you've set your sights on the No Slip instead. My brother has one of these in his AMC20, and he likes it.

TW

--------- '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44

The USA spec is for the D35 as standard fitment. You guys outside the USA get the D44 as standard. We get the D44 as an option. We get the D30 up front, just like you. We also get power steering. I'd rather have the D44 than the Power Steering. Adding power steering is much easier than adding a D44.