DOH brakes!

Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined. Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I did brake work.

Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter grease or silicone, but that's all I had.

I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't that much over the lifetime.

Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and gaskets, or at least gaskets.

DougW wrote: > Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back in.

I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you open up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a problem.

tw

The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it.

I live > RoyJ wrote:

I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little springs on.

You did have the brake spring pliers, right?

Chris

Yes, evidently we didn't know how to use them properly. It was shear misery getting that last spring on.

Sure is, you get your buddy to do it, that's why you start any such job by getting a keg of beer, didn't you know that? ;-)

NOTE: Barbeque works well also.

It's worth a keg of beer not to ever have to do it again.

I repete: shear misery.

It's one way of doing the job, you basically push the old fluid out and refill from the reservoir instead of having to suction off fluid when you push the pistons back in. It's much easier to push the piston back in also. Your basic hand pressure is enough.

Heh.. I have one of those but couldn't find it. :( I just used vice grips.

I use the hook to walk the old spring off. Then the C notched handle to put the new springs on. Just hook the spring over the handle, hook the C over the big pin, then pry up till the spring slides into place. Easier to show than to type. :/

The Cup is used to take the spring clips off the "nails" and to install them back on. I use a purpose built driver for that.

Ok. I don't touch the master cylinder at all and just push the pistons back in, leaving the system closed throughout the job. No muss, no fuss.

tw

Don't do that on an ABS system, you'll be sorry sooner or later, when a spec of crud gets into the valving. Spdloader

Yeah, untill you hit one where the guy at Jiffy Lube topped off the m/c the day before. Then ya got brake fluid everywhere.

-- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM

Hate to tell you, but you're using them wrong. The"cup" is for taking the top springs off the anchor pin. Put the cup over the pin, rotate the pliers and the little tab on the cup hooks the spring and lifts it over the end of the anchor pin.

-- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM

Psha! It's hard enough to get those guys to put _OIL_ back in the motor...They're going to OPEN the master cylinder?? Hahahhaha! Funny. But I do get your point.

tw

doh, your correct. That's why I had to buy one of these for the clips.

And I still can't find my brake pliars. :( Don't ya hate it when tools grow legs.....

They all have legs, that's why you put leashes on them. Give them an inch.....

tw

Heh. The lower left is the worst point. Of course at this thickness if they were rivited the rivits would be grinding.