Just got a Powertrax rear diff, 2000 TJ... NEED ADVICE

Aug 31, 2004 8 Replies

I had researched the Powertrax for about two years. Finally today I had it installed. (yeah, I should have done it myself) (although I'd feel like I had installed it wrong...see below)



The clicking is OK. So is the clunking. However, the tire chirp while turning ANY street corner, tire spin while starting out from any corner while turning, the shifting torque steer in unexpected directions, the shifting rearend when slowing and speeding up at any speed, also in unexpected and unpredictable directions all have me VERY concerned that I've spend $400 for something that significantly reduces the highway drivability.



Someone please tell me that these symptons will fade. A lot! I've read that they will, but I'm still worried.



I use the TJ for my daily driver and for hunting in muddy, boggy, and dirt and grass hill areas. Also, I get some snow, ice, and slush driving time. I haven't had an opportunity to get in the woods yet, but the highway driving is really a little scary.



I read that uniform tire pressure is very important. Is uniform higher pressure or lower more helpful with reducing torque steer?



Any advice.



Masnor


Just keep the rear tire pressure even... neither higher nor lower pressure really helps in a meaningful way. The more you drive it, the less its effects are noticeable. Understand that it unlocks much easier going around corners if you keep the power off through a corner. If you power through a corner it will stay locked up and you'll experience tire chirp.

Just drive and you'll soon discover through a short learning process what minimizes the effects and what exaggerates the effects of a rear locker. It does get better, I have had a rear auto locker (Detroit Locker) in my daily driver TJ for 3-4 years now and it reminds me of its presence just enough to make me grin once in a while. :)

Jerry

drivability.

You will become accustomed to these traits.

Do this, go out on a trail that is a real bitch, one that formerly had you spinning tires on opposite corners. Notice how easily you negotiate the obsticle now. The traits you describe will be a reasonable trade-off, I assure you.

I have to disagree here. It isn't the highway driving that causes you concerns, its the street driving. You will get used to it very quickly. I had NEVER even heard of a locker before I bought my CJ, and it came with two of them already installed. It was a bit un-nerving at first to have my Jeep change lanes on its own, and the time the people in the convertable in the next lane ducked when the locker unlocked still makes me chuckle. I am very comfortable in any car that is on the road, and mastering the locker equipped CJ5 took just a few hours.

Use the gas pedal with less gusto. Roll the gas on and off instead of mashing at the pedal. The driving technique is more like a chauffer than a stock-car pilot.

You not only want to keep the rear tire pressure at the same psi but also the same tread depth. If you blow a rear tire you want to make sure to take one off the front (that closest matches wear, tread depth) and put the spare on the front. Nick

Thanks for all of the advice (and criticims - I wasn't feeling quite bad enough, but you fixed that. thanks). I have only had time to adjust the tire pressure - it was off a couple of pounds and getting them exactly matched seemed to noticably help. Also, as suggested, there was apparently some breakin softening, even if only during the 45 highway miles I got to drive. It initially felt like the rear end was jumping sideways about 6 inches, when only MILDLY letting off or on the gas when on a gentle highway cruve (at 60mph). And "mildly" was as gentle and I could possibly work the pedal. I was hopefull to get to the woods tomorrow, but that's not going to happen now...(below)

When I had the powertrax put in, I also had the manual transmission fluid changed. Fortunately, they noticed a metal part on the drain plug and saved it for me. It looks like a roller bearing or pin, about 1/8th inch dia (by eye) and about 1.5 inches long. One end is machined, the other was obviously snapped off. I had about 13K miles left on the warranty, so I got it into the dealer the next day. They just started taking it apart today.

-- snipped-for-privacy@usace.army.mil

Marc, hope you didn't consider my response a criticism? If so, I apologize. I sure didn't intend it that way.

Dave

Dave, No problem. I was grinning, but still feeling bad at the time for an expensive "upgrade" that wasn't acting like I had thought it would on the highway and I had had no chance to use it offroad.

The best thing to come out of this (so far) has been the broken part found when the transmission fluid was drained. For the price of my original extended insurance and the $59 deductable, I'll be getting a general transmission overhaul. I heard today that the shop had ordered about $1,400 in parts, mostly seals. That should prolong the transmission for several years. That makes the cost of the insurance basically a wash.

If they also find the cause of a slow coolant loss, then that will be like a free repair. I had not thought MUCH about adding a quart or so when I cheched fluids at oil change time. But after reading news group posts about a cracked head causing a mysterious coolant loss, I though I'd have them check that also. I called after they had started on the transmission, so they'll have to get the transmission back in, then try to find the coolant loss.

All the while I'm busting to get to the woods and try out the Powertrax. I may not get my Wrangler back until Tuesday or Wednesday after Labor Day - then a week or so before I can try it out.

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