As of this morning (Tuesday), it appears the PS and Tr Case leaks are eliminated which is grreat.
Also, an update on the engine "rattle". Apparently it only occurs after the engine starts to warm up since when I started up this morning (24 dedeg F outside), the noise waas absent until after about 3 minutes.
As the engine became warmer I started to hear it a little bit, then as it really warmed up, the noise became more consistent.
I don't know if that is any kind of clue for any of you, but I thought I'd share it.
Bearing noise. Pop the distributor cap and see if you can wiggle the rotor side to side. There should be no slop. There should also be no oil in the bottom. A failing bushing in the distributor can cause this noise.
Water pump would be my first guess.
Get yourself one of these.
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work loads better than ears or the old screwdriver trick.
That's some screwy plastic to work with. Forget the glue gun, it won't stick. A hot nail might work. So could some epoxy made for the plastic. Look on the bottle for the type of plastic it's made of. Little triangle thing with a number usually. Then get an epoxy for that type of plastic.
R134a. Refill kits are cheap, get one with a gauge and don't put in an oil charge, you more than likely do not need it. (By the way, there was a recall for leaking accumulator in that model year. Check to see if the recall was done, it might be a free fix from the dealer)
That is the oil level sender. Here is a ref
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Connector needs to be cleaned. Not a critical error long as you remember where you put the transfer case shifter.
Your going to have to take it out and clean it before it self destructs. Could be an internal gear has broken or the park switch corroded out.
Won't work. You need the antenna mast from the dealer or opt for an aftermarket rubber antenna.
If I can find the part number I'll post a followup. By the way, the motor is a pain in the ass to get at.
Nope. This can happen if the door switches or hood switch get contaminated with salt. The salt provides just enough current to set off the alarm sensor. Start with the hood switch. It's down on the passenger side. Just pull the wire off and put some tape over it.
eBay.
I went aftermarket with power windows, starter, and 300ft range remote.
Ugh, sorry I always leave something out. It's a 5.2.
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I bought this epoxy at autozone, I believe it's called "Steel Weld" or something like that (don't have it in front of me now). It says it does plastics, and also specifically mentions antifreeze in its' "Liquid resistance" section.. none of the others I looked at mentioned this so Im gonna try with that.
Can that be done without dropping the trans case? I know it's kind of hard to get at, but it doesn't seem impossible.
Interesting, since it comes up in AutoZone's computer for 96 JGC 5.2 as a compatible part.. hmm
It looks as if you are trying to seal a plastic coolant reservoir tank. I have had good luck sealing these with silicon sealer, aka RTV. Unless they have improved epoxy since the last time I checked, it is not flexible enough for this application. Good luck though. Whatever you use, a clean base for the repair will be essential.
:) In that case I dunno. My service books only cover the I6.
That could be an exhaust tick. Hard to tell without actually listening myself. :/
I can get to mine without much problem. Don't do it when it's cold out or the plastic lock tabs can crack.
They might have changed things since 98 when I did mine. If they claim it's compaitible then they should have no problem taking it back if it isn't. :)
(short instructions)
1) turn the wheels right
2) remove the plastic shroud from behind the passenger side tire
3) looking in there you should see a screw and strap that holds the motor. Remove the screw
4) track back the wires (up/down wire and antenna cable) (these were a real pain for me, so once you find them and _before_ you pull them out, tape a stron cord to the end. This will give you something to pull them back in with)
5) remove the top lock nut (shiny chrome trim thingy)
The rest is fairly easy. They do talk about doing this replacement without removing the motor, but that assumes it's the metal that's bent and there isn't any broken bits of plastic cog pushystuff in there (heck, I dunno what it's called)
When the truck is cold (i.e. in the morning), there is no noise at all, but as it begins to warm (after several minutes), I begin to hear the noise, until it is readily and consistently there at normal operating tempartatures.
Does that fact give any more clues as to what, or what it may not be?
I did this the other day. Took it off, cleaned it w/carb cleaner, and the harness as well. The "piston" thingy in the switch seemed perfectly operational, and clean as a whistle.
Put it back in, still same crap. I suppose the "internals" of the switch are shot. I'll get the new one from auto zone.. like $15 I think.
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