replace u-joint

thanks, Roy. shall i replace both side?

When I take out the shaft, I need to replace the axlew seal? That's a pain.

Someone had posted a method to easily remove the hub out of the knuckle that makes sense. I have not tried this trick yet but it should reduce damage and time making this a 0.5 job taking off the hub instead of 1.5 hours.

Basically you can loosen that center axle nut, remove caliper bolts and loosen the hub bolts then pry against the wheel and the steering knuckle at the tie rod. Some people caution doing this with the mag wheels so I suggest using a steel wheel then. I guess I would also remove the caliper out of the way while switching to the steel wheel. ;-)

Of course use anti-seize during reassembly. ;-)

You only need to replace the one joint Herb. Once finished, you can decide if you want to tackle the other side.....

The hub is going to be a 'real' SOB to come out the first time. They rust in there something fierce. I recommend soaking in penetrating oil for several days if you have that option.

Unless you have leaking issues I wouldn't even think about the seal. It is inside the diff pumpkin and is a 3.5 hour shop labour job using power tools, special pullers and a hoist. A good day's work in the driveway. I do have the/a seal tool here. Well a home made one that works well if you really want to get in there you could borrow it.

Just make sure the end of the axle is super clean when you put it back in and be very gentle at the last 6".

When you go to remove the hub, you can leave the big axle bolt alone, the axle will pull out with the hub, there is no need to break them apart.

The hub has 3 big bolts from the back side. I have a spare bolt I use to beat on so I pull the three out, soak everything in liquid wrench, cut the wheel to the side for room to swing and put my bolt in one ear and hit it 'HARD'. I then cut the wheel the other way, move the bolt to the other side and hit it again. Doing this a few times will crack the hub loose.

You cannot use a puller on those hubs. They are a press fit bearing setup and you will just tear the hub apart.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Herb wrote:

YES replace both of them, and buy the greasable king and grease them every oil change or sooner if you play in the sand, mud, water or salty roads.

Snow...

If one is bad, the other is probably about due for replacement. And once you have done one side, you will know how to do it in less time. But doing the first one will test your willpower. All of us that have done it have some "magic secret" to get the hubs freed up. Mine is to use some 6 ton jack stands that SAFELY extend to 24". The only good place to pound is on the very bottom side, you need to get a good swing with a

2-1/2 pound hammer with the head up and the handle straight down. I even have a 6 pound hammer (sledge hammer with a shortened handle) If you do it yourself you will do > thanks, Roy.

thank you everyone for the input. I just hurted the muscle on the chest at blue mountain tonight. So I have to get the garage to replace the ujoints. Dealing with rust bolts is no fun at all.

Mike, you have a good shop to recommend?

I would check out Hans at Ontario RV or ORV I think it is in the phone book.

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