just replaced the joints in my rear driveshaft and I noticed that the yoke from the Dana 300 has a bit of slop in regards to the u-joint. It has aprox. 1/16" gap (between the caps on the joint and the barb that sticks up on the sides of the yoke) in which the joint can slide side to side. The u-joint is tight in the driveshaft. any one else seen this? (this is prob. why the old joints were totally shot!)
thanks, Brad.
'81 CJ-7
258 w/ some mods 2.5" lift (old rancho lift that rides like a rock)I ha the same problem. I had to replace the u-joint every 600Km before I replaces the yoke, since changing the yoke I havenot had to replace a u-joint.
-Dan
brad smith wrote:
Yup, that has happened to me a couple times too.
It is caused from pushing the vibrations until the u-joint gets really bad. It beats the cast tabs open a bit. I have tried to bend them back a bit, it doesn't work, they shear off then.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sDan wrote:
I'm planning for a CV Shaft upgrade in the near future. Is there anything unusual about changing the Yoke (dispite that I'll need a different yoke for the CV shaft)? Any special tools/torque that would not allow DIY?
Thanks,
Bill
Just did this on my TJ, I used Tom Woods
You can still use the D300 yoke with a CV Shaft? I thought it needed to be changed.
Bill
I had to change mine when I put on my Tom Woods driveshaft. Just pull the nut off that holds the yoke, and pull the yoke. Also, you probably want to get a puller to get the yoke off. The torque for the nut is about 125 ft pounds. The new yoke was $60.00 from Tom Woods.
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