stripped torx

If you have a Dremel, you could 'cut' a slot in them, so you can use a slotted screw driver.

?

put torx socket in and strike the back of it with a hammer hard real hard and firm DON"T MISS. then with your tool with a forceful jerk it should come out if not get a bigger hammer hit it harder and spray with some sort of penetrating oil. let sit then over night then again with the hammer and remove. I managed to get all but one on my 89 yj out with this method.

if the torx head is stripped bad and useless try pounding in an allan tool to fit be sure you have done the above pre removal procedures.

if that fails start drilling small size bit to big size right on dead centre of the bolt.

when putting in the new ones coat them with lithium grease.

good luck

If there is paint on them, the proper sized torx won't usually fit.... One size down 'seems' to fit nice and tight, but the soft paint crushes and zip, off go the points.

A torch also works well. They have a thread sealer on lots that is heat activated and it removes the paint.

The ones into the body tub have nuts glued inside so you have to remove the dash to get the top door hinge off normally. Those you can hold with the torx and use a wrench on the insides or if you aren't saving the bolts, you can just drill the heads off with a 3/8 bit and punch the stems through. You will still need the dash off to get the new nuts back in there....

A slot with a dremil tool using a fiberglass cutting wheel works for a place to hit it with a punch or flat head to get it moving.

A few ideas for you...

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

diablo wrote:

Everyone should own a 5 piece reverse drill bits, their cheap. Get a pack and then hook it up to your electric drill and put it on reverse. The drill bit will grab and back out your torx bolt. Same with larger bolts. Those reverse bits are priceless... Nick

And there i was thinking something like this would be an hour job ;)

thanks for your help guys!

Steve

As Mike says, they are put on with a heat-activated thread sealer. I tried the impact wrench method suggested by Bill on my YJ - 5 broken torx sockets (replaced by NAPA under warranty) and 3 big gouges in my paint later, I gave up. I managed to get only one bolt out. Luckily, I didn't strip any heads, just broke the sockets - twisted the mothers right off. The thread sealer is evil stuff. Heat is likely the only way to get it off, but I don't know how you would do it and not ruin your paint. Possibly a soldering iron or gun held right on the head would create enough heat to melt it. You may want to talk to a Jeep body shop to see how they do it.

Dana

93 YJ 90 XJ Ltd.

---------------

91 Grand Wagoneer Ltd. 82 Cherokee 76 Cherokee

My Craftsman socket was the first one to break - even before I started using the impact wrench. Then my neighbor's S/K. That is when I went to NAPA because it was a 3 mile drive vs. 20 to replace the Craftsman. I bought 4 more at NAPA, broke 2 more with the impact wrench, then gave up. All 3 brands simply twisted halfway down the shaft & broke. I think the reason was because the head of the bolts is only a couple mm deep, so the weakest part of the shaft was left without support. Maybe they make some that are designed for impact wrenches, but I couldn't find any that day.

How did you go about applying heat without mangling the paint? Would the soldering iron method get it hot enough? If I remember correctly (this was a couple years ago) after my torx bit fiasco, I think I read somewhere that you didn't need to get the bolt really hot, but something like 150-200 degrees F and they would release, but I can't verify that. I just gave up and bought a $6 mirror and Velcro it to my rollbar whenever I take the doors off. And yes Bill, I do have to use doors occasionally up here when it gets below zero!

I have never seen a set come out without paint damage. It is easy enough to sand down the hinges and repaint them, but the OP is changing them so who cares?

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dana Rohleder wrote:

leslie (Spelling?)tool makes a solid 1 piece socket that is 3/8 impact sustainable. it is black sold at a/c delco part stores and some uap stores.

Chris

As far as saving the paint while using heat....could you put in the torx bit and apply heat to the torx bit...would the heat transfer down the bolt? how much heat do you need to get the loctite to loosen?

In my experience, the paint must bubble before the thread sealer will let go. I have tried a few times to 'save the paint' with no success at all.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Steve wrote:

Slice the paint with a razor first? Draw around the torx head?

That 'sure' helps the bit fit. I use a mini screwdriver to pick it too. The thread sealer is on the inside of the body....

Mike

Steve wrote: