Tie Rod Issues and replacement

Squeeze the stud into the spindle arm using big Channel-Locking pliers, a vice grip, a hydraulic jack or whatever seems to work. This may lock the stud into the socket enough so you can get the nut off. After spending a couple hours at that, cutting the stud won't seem like such a bad idea. ;^)

Earle

To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body shows.

Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one piece.

If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper in the hole once you get it off.

I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.

I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....

The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)

Mike

Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!

Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an outer tie rod end.

As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.

Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one, and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.

Thanks in advance for all your replies.

-Les

Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.

check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts) line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.

for OEM I deal with

Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.

Oops wrong part. It's $143, ouch. Some sites have this listed as a Drag link, while others list it as a tie rod.. Aaargh.

Where are you located?

Carl

If you have an inmpact wrench, you can usually get those @#$% nuts started by pushing the socket on so that it holds the rod fairly solid then bash the ball joint from the other side as you run the air. That will drive the taper in far enough to grab for a bit - might even hold to get it all the way off. When all else fails, you can usually cut the grease boot out of the way and get a pipe wrench or big pair of vice ripes on the lower part of the ball and/or the stem. Worst comes to worst, just drive the pickle fork in like you were pulling the thing out - that will usually hold them still as well - but you have to keep driving it tight as you go.

at that point I'd probably drag out a nut-splitter or the cutoff wheel.

Central Illinois.

I'm in the process of rounding up a nut splitter.

Just found a complete used, but decent replacement for $20 from a guy in a local Jeep Club. Cool.