TJ not returning to center after turn

I had a grabbing and not returning issue on my CJ7 a bit ago. I checked the steering shock first and found out it wasn't a shock, only a rod in an empty tube so that wasn't the cause.

I then found a lower ball joint bad during a grease job when I noticed the torn boot. Replaced that and all is well again.

You can sometimes pick off a bad ball joint by looking at the tires or using a level even. If one tire seems to sit out at the top or bottom a bit more than the other side, suspect a bad ball joint. You need a 'big' pry bar to get movement in them with the solid axle setup.

Sometimes if you are a big person, you can grab the top of the tire and rock it in and out hard enough to get the Jeep just a bouncing, you might feel a click or thunk or shift as the joint flexes.

On a TJ, you also might want to check the track bar bushings. If worn, they can cause it to 'hang' before centering too.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - G> I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a

Have the caster checked. That is many times the cause of the symptom you are describing. It is possible you were on the low limit of caster before, and the lift would just make it worse. Having it checked is much cheaper than replacing parts and hoping you find the problem.

Chris

That is a symptom of one or more bad ball joints.

Spdloader

For the sake of discussion, Jeff, why would his caster suddenly be off? Would a 2" spring lift be substantial enough to cause it? Obviously, it would make the upper ball joint move slightly forward, but would it be enough to cause his problem? ....and did the problem start immediately after installing the spring lift? On the other hand,...... Dry, worn ball joints won't allow the spindles to auto-return, they tend to stick.

Not for arguments sake, for discussions sake.

Spdloader

Hmm, I think I possibally may have found the problem. I do remember when I last lubed the chassis, the lower ball joint on the drives side had a rip in the boot. I wonder if this is it.

My only concern is that I had it inspected last month by the dealer, and wouldn't a ball joint be grounds for failure in NY?

It probably is grounds for failure, but how do you know the dealer properly inspected everything? So many dealers are scam artists and just plain sloppy in their work. If in fact your ball joint is defective, I would suggest finding a new dealer or checking things like that yourself. It is actually pretty easy to do, and that way you're not putting your life in the hands of someone who might not value your safety as much as you do.

Chris

And real men don't.

And you do, constantly.

Running from answers, running from truth, running off at the mouth, running in ever-smaller circles and whatever that is that's running down your leg -- again.

Give up, Cooyon.

You ain't ever gonna anything, just like you never were anything.

In your eye.

Dead on.

A real Billseye, so to speak.

Agreed

When the upper leans toward the rear of the car it is positive.

Correct

Good points. I'm still guessing ball joints in this case.

Spdloader

Yes, but, the measure of ball joints is in the movement of the joint. It also makes a difference if it is a loaded or unloaded ball joint on how it is checked. Finally, the strength of a man isn't always enough force to make the failure apparent, as opposed to the weight of the vehicle and force of driving on the joint. Failed ball joints can be full of rust and dirt if the boot is torn, and therefore show no movement, but still stick. No other way to gauge without a crystal ball. Tearing of the boot is enough to suggest replacement.

It is hard to diagnose, but the symptoms usually speak for themselves. Spdloader

Well, they don't get the name $tealership for nothing....

They 'are' hard to spot though....

If the boot is torn, suspect joint movement as the cause.

Mike

so no really easy way to test it though other than replacement?

If it has a torn boot, replace it. Since the spindle will be off, replace 'em both. Spdloader

I looked carefully at the gap on each side and noticed a difference. I also used a large pry bar and got a slight bit of sideways (front to back I think it was) motion so I changed it. I was lucky and that was my trouble.

A carpenters level put on the rim to check vertical angles can sometimes pick off a slight difference between the sides indicating the blown joint.

If you have 'not' been bushwhacking lately, then the only way to get a torn boot is from joint movement.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Ï "Spdloader" Ýãñáøå óôï ìÞíõìá news:46d0b0e9$0$4037$ snipped-for-privacy@roadrunner.com...

Whith a 2" lift the caster decreases from 7 to 5 degrees. Thats because the upper arm joint on the axle moves slightly forward when the axle drops, and the lower arm joint on the axle moves backwards.

5 degrees of caster is outside the 6-8 degrees range given by the manufacturer. But still not enough alone to prevent self centering. Another problem such as the balljoint failure must co-exist, that together with the reduced self-centering force has become apparent.

Bill Spiliotopoulos,

'96 XJ, '06 TJ.