90 Body Cappings / Mid Rail Replacement - How easy?

Its now time to try to make my 90 hardtop a bit less like a cullinder and more like a leak free (dont laugh) 90. Every time it rains i have a pond in the back!

Both my Body Cappings / Mid Rails have rusted and need welding up or replacing - dont know which till i get them off.

So, how easy is it to remove the upper body of a hartop to get to the rails?

I presume i need to remove the rear door and cab headlining and unbolt over the windscreen and the 6 or so bolts along the length of the 90. Do the front doors need to come off (if so may as well replace the hindges at the same time)?

Will the side pannels and roof come off in one piece? If so how heavy is it? Will 2 people lift it off without any bother?

One concern i do have is that if i replace the mid rails, in solving that problem, how easy is it to get the thing watertight again? The last thing I want is a waterfall down the inside of the windscreen!!!

thanks Jon

Reply to
Jon
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My experience was with a Series III, and there are differences.

The front doors can stay on.

Three people would be better, one at the back and one at each side door. Two people can carry it, it isn't heavy, but three will give you better control and an easier carry clear. On a Series hard top, there are several small brackets bolted to tub and top, but the main fittings use the sockets for the hood sticks.

There should be rubber sealing strips.

Reply to
David G. Bell

If you decide on replacing them, make sure you can source the replacement parts before you start. I have been told by a local parts supplier that every they have placed with land rover for capping, land rover have supplied 2 left handed cappings and they cant get a pair.

Reply to
Martin (Wirral, UK)

Why not use "proper" galv series II/III cappings?

Jon B

Reply to
Jon

A pal of mine had exactly the same happen to him when he ordered a pair from a LR dealer as well. They did change them for him however.

It's easy to get ones that are structurally OK regalved though.

Regards

William MacLeod

Reply to
William MacLeod

Is it only series II/III ones that are galv? Are 90 and 110 ones mild steel? If so will the series ones be a straight fit without too much modification?

If genuine ones are steel, do Britpart or Allmakes4x4 do galv ones?

Thanks Jon

Reply to
Jon

The front and back doors can stay on, but it is a bit easier when lifting the roof off if the rear door is off. Upper body is held on by fixings round the windscreen and then two bolts each side (one just behind the front door and one in the rear corner) plus a bracket either side of the rear door. I'm told by those who have been there that the cappings are glued on as well as riveted and are thus a right pig to get off. Not so much of a problem if you're replacing them, (just butcher them off) I guess, but a serious pain if you're looking to re-use them. Gordon

Reply to
Gordon

No, 90s and 110 were both fitted with galvanised items well into the

1990s.

Series ones will not fit as they are the wrong length.

I'd guess that Britpart will do them, IIRC they are not all that expensive. According to EPC you're looking at anything between 30 and 80 quid a side depending on model and year.

cheers

Dave W.

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Reply to
Dave White

OK, began to tackle the roof at the weekend. Got all the bolts out and persuaded the back to come appart withe relative ease. BUT what an earth holds body and sole together above the windscreen?

I removed the two screws and all (fom memory) 6 bolts but she still wouldnt shift.

In the end I left the roof on and removed the side pannel only.

Good news is that the rails dont need to be replaced as the rust had blown the paint and water was getting under the paint and inside rather than through rusty holes.

Now, just a simple case of grinding as much rust off as possible, Jenolite Paint (2 coats) to bare metal, fiberglass pack over the rusty area, dress down and repaint - cost about £10 + paint.

Job d>Its now time to try to make my 90 hardtop a bit less like a cullinder

Reply to
Jon

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