Just had the leaky master cylinder replaced on my 90 and now the clutch bites really near the floor whereas before it was much further up the pedal travel. Is this normal or is something not adjusted quite right?
Defender clutch question
May 05, 2006
4 Replies
Either air is still in system which will work its way out with use or the freeplay on the operating rod hasn't been adjusted. Take the small plate off the top of the pedal box (held on with 6 screws) and you will see the rod passing through top of pedal lever with a locknut either side. Basically the rod should be set to give a small bit of free play before it touches the piston, no more than 3 - 4mm. If it's more than this, get your spanners out and adjust out the slack. Don't over do it or you'll get premature clutch wear.
Sean
73FL74 101GS 1984 110 2.5NA Medway Military Vehicle Group
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Sounds like it needs more bleeding.
It took me quite a few attempts to get mine sorted out.
I recommend a pressure bleeding kit, it is by far the easiest way to do it!
I also found that after I changed the slave, the master needed doing, so maybe the reverse applies!
Cheers
Peter
1990 110TD "Reggie the Veggie"
Having tried a pressure bleeding kit I can't recommend it as the easiest way to do it. I now have a vacuum bleeding kit (
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) which works far better. (Although it needs a compressor to run it) Phil Gardiner
Bugger, definitely not right as I can't get any gears now when at a standstill, not too bad when rolling along. Looks like it needs to back in on Monday!!
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