Defender Front Prop

There was one going spare on the M5 earlier :-)

snipped-for-privacy@m2software.co.uk (Mike Birch) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

Have you actually dismantled the UJ's and inspected them? Mine were declared OK but the vibration was still so bad that, one day, I turned for home one mile out. It was only when I dismantled them I found they were bone dry. BTW, they seemed to move freely but it was only when I got them off that I noticed one had a rough spot, enough to cause very bad vibrations.

Also, have you tried disengaging the splined end and rotating 180 degrees? That also helped in my case.

Derry

Take the front propshaft off, lock the diff and go for a drive, if the vibration is gone then the prop is where the problem is. Good luck, Fergus

Recently replaced the front prop on my 110 due to vibration, caused by wear in the sliding splined joint! Second time this has happened in 11 years of ownership and each time it's been a GKN prop that's worn..... hmmmmmm. Badger.

In message , Mike Birch writes

Be careful removing the front prop - mark it so that when it comes apart you can put it back together in the same position. The props are balanced. What you were told about harmonic frequency is IMHO a load of bollocks.

I had a similar problem with my 50th Ann 90. In fact it was due to wheels and tyres being way out of balance, but it sounded just like a prop/uj/diff problem. Also discovered the spare, which had never been on the vehicle was also way out. Local independent told me it was not the first time they had come across this problem with LR alloys.

I have the same symptoms on my 90. The prop seems fine as do the uj,s. One of the lorry mechanics where i work took a peep for me and came to the conclusion that my crown wheel and pinion needs replacing. If you have a lot of backlash in your prop,And the noise also can be heard when easing off the throttle you may have the same problem.

On or around Fri, 5 Sep 2003 19:04:14 +0100, hugh enlightened us thusly:

the front props are not assembled with the joints in line. There should be marks (arrows) either side of the sliding joint (one is on the joint and can be difficult to spot) - the alignment looks to me roughly 60 degrees off straight, but I've not actually measured one.

Austin Shackles wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

A LR mechanic explained it to me thusly: "On the front prop shaft, the lugs of the front UJ should be opposite the ears of the rear UJ". As lugs and ears mean the same thing in Scots dialect, you can take this as you will!

(I think you'll manage to work it out. This advice was over the phone so I could not smell his breath. But it seemed to work on my 90 -- subject to interpretation).

Derry

That's a very interesting point. There does seem to be a lot of play in the front diff. I reckon a good 10 degrees. I don't get a clunk when easing off, but it certainly does when selecting reverse. My wheels have all been balanced and I've swapped them around with no improvement. I'll see how much play is in the rear diff. I guess they should be about the same?