Disco 2 - Suspension clunks

OK so it's an old'ish bus (1999) but the suspension really knocks and clunks, particularly but not exclusively when steering into bends and the weight transfers over, I started by changing the front shocks as the bushes were totally shot but that's not made much difference. New rear shocks going on this week for good measure too. I've had a good look around and all the rest of the bushes 'look' ok and I've had a pry bar in them and there doesn't seem excess play anywhere so I'm wondering where best to start? I thought ARB bushes or the rear Watts Linkage but they look fine.

Had a quote to fully Polybush it but £500 is a lot of dosh to chuck in if there is likely to be a cheaper and more obvious cause?

Any ideas/experience?

Reply to
Andy Cooke
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Knocks and clunks - a higher pitched knock can be the trackrod/drag link ball joints moving to the limit of their travel. Trackrod not hitting a guard?

Steering box tightly bolted to chassis? Drag link tight on steering box output shaft and ball joint OK?

Shocks are very unlikely to have any bearing on this - except in the 'general wear' context as described below.

If you can lever the front radius arms sideways until they touch the axle bracket, the radius arm bushes are shot.

Check for broken road springs. They'll usually fails close to one end.

I don't think that you're approaching this correctly. The chances are that it's not a component failure in the way that you're thinking but general wear and tear. You need to think about worn bolts and elongated mounting holes. This applies to shockers, front radius arm bushes at the axle, rear radius arm bushes at the axle and panhard rod bushes. Bear in mind that all these sleeve bushes require the inner to be clamped by the bolt to the bracket and that it should not rotate on the bolt when in use. If you can't keep these bolts tight, it's an indication that some remedial work is required. (As an aside, nyloc and similar nuts don't keep joints tight they just stop the nut unscrewing totally when the joint loosens.)

If bolts are stepped replace them. If bracket holes are elongated and/or worn where the bush inner seats they should be reclaimed. You need a hole that's not a sloppy fit for the bolt and the seat for the bush inner sleeve should be wider than the sleeve and flat. Needless to say the under bolt head and under nut surfaces should be flat, too. The shocker dished washers have a 'spigot' that should seat snugly in the hole in the bracket: the hole is frequently badly worn.

The ball joint between the A-frame and the rear axle housing wears. I can hear it immediately but others appear to be deaf to it. Listen for a clonk from the rear as you take up/release drive. It's pretty obvious when you go under with a lever.

Standard bushes work fine but are more of a pain to fit.

Don't waste your money on fancy items until you've sorted the basics!

Reply to
Dougal

Just noticed that this was about Disco 2 - Oops! Most still applies.

Reply to
Dougal

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