Fitting an auto box into 110.

On or around Tue, 30 Dec 2008 08:47:10 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@aol.com enlightened us thusly:

Best bet would be a 4-speed ZF from a discovery, with the LT230 T-box. If you're lucky, that won't cause propshaft issues. If you get one with the Borg-Warner T-box (from a later Rangie) then the T-box is about 2" shorter between flanges, meaning you need a non-standard propshaft somewhere in the thing.

The one I did used standard gearbox mountings, standard front prop, but needed the engine mount points moving forward about 4" on the chassis. That wasn't a V8 to start with though. Had it been an LT230 it'd have been able to use the standard rear prop as well, I think.

Other things you might need to do is modify/move the fan/radiator. You'll need to sort a mount for the shifter: eventually, mine ended up with a piece of treadplate mounted on top of the gearbox tunnel. The shifter cable is not all that long and quite stiff so you don't get a huge amount of choice about where the shifter goes. Get the internal trim and selector indicator stuff as well, when acquiring a box, and make sure you get the flexplate (which replaces the flywheel) and the torque converter.

You might do better hunting an engine-and-box combo. The early 110 engine is detuned quite a bit, unless of course you've already solved that. It won't work too well with the normal autobox ratio set, which has pretty high transfer ratios. However, with the LT230 you also get the ability to change T-box ratios, so you could use lower gearing.

If it's any help I have for sale a ZF 4HP22 taken from a 3.5 EFI RR, it was a re-con fitted by Ashcroft Transmissions in 2001, done about

Located in Luton

Alex

In message , Austin Shackles writes

I have a 90 50th Anniversary which is a V8 with auto gearbox. Can't give you much technical information but that might be a source of useful information for you, especially regarding prop shafts, oil cooler mountings etc.