Ach! Need to replace the CV joints -- I think

'95 Disco V8.
While making a sharp turn and accelerating through the turn, I'm starting to get that tell-tale clicking noise...but it sounded like it
was coming from the back? Must be my imagination? Is there anything back there that could cause that?
In any case, while still assuming it's worn CV joints (177,0000 miles on the beast) what kind of job am I looking at here?
I really HATE working on suspension and axles/CV joints. How difficult is it to replace both fron CV joints? I'm not familiar with working on a solid front axle with ball swivels. I have the factory manual, and all this stuff about shimming the swivel ball and whatnot is making me shy away from this job. How hard is it really? I have replaced the CV joints on a front wheel drive mcPherson strut vehicle before if you are wondering about my abilities. That job was a huge PITA. I have also replaced coilover shocks on my Miata. Also a PITA. So I CAN do this stuff, I just don't like to. Any input? Thanks
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On or around Wed, 19 Mar 2008 16:26:12 -0700 (PDT), Anthony

It's not that hard, and depending on which axle you may not have shimming issues. Shimming applies to the ones with railco top bushes, which not all disco axles have. In any case, if you're not changing the swivel bearings, you just need to make sure that the shims for each side go back in afterwards.
Actually, thinking on, I don't recall you need to remove the swivels at all to pull the CV/half shaft. Get the axle number first, there are 2 kinds of CV joints and they don't swap.
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How do I get the axle number? Is it stamped somewhere?
Also, it looks like it would be prudent to replace the axe to swivel housing seal, according to the manual. Also, I'd need new hub nuts, locktabs and possibly shims...correct? Can anybody give me a list of the parts I need? Looking in the manual, it mentions three special tools I'll need to replace the seal :P
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On 20/03/2008 13:14, Anthony wrote:

You only need to re-shim it if you are replacing the swivel bearings - but only if its a certain type, and you dont need to remove the swivel housing to remove the CV. I think the hole behind the stub axle is big enough to get the CV joint though.
LR changed the design of the swivel form a normal bearing to a railko type which i think do need shimms? Might be wrong. Hence the need for the axle number, which is stamped on the top of it somewhere.
Anyway, the only tool i had to buy to replace pretty much everything in my swivels was a hub nut spanner. Only a fiver, and makes life much easier to undo the 52mm nuts.
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DISCOVERY_1/Axle/Hub_nut_spanner_-_for_use_with_bar_-_front_axle_to_JA032850.html
This is a good guide i found after doing the job for stripping the complete hub down.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopicV01
Paddocks do a kit with new swivel bearings and all the gaskets you need. I got that and some one shot grease when i did mine.
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Axle/Swivel_Kit_-_no_ball_-_front_axle_from_LA930456.html
Hope this helps
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On or around Thu, 20 Mar 2008 06:14:53 -0700 (PDT), Anthony

on the axle :-) Might take some searching. Unfortunately you can't determine half-shaft type by VIN.

OK. You don't need any new nuts unless they're buggered, you don't need the lockwasher unless it's been used more than once (although they're only pence to buy) - only 1/3 of it gets used to lock the 2 nuts, so you can find an unused bit to bend over.
As Mark says, get the hub nut box spanner. I don't recall needing any other special tools.
As for the bearings, shims are only needed if you're changing swivel bearings.
Railco bush ones. Railco bushes were fitted to series motors and to early 90/110, but NOT early rangie/disco. I think I'm right in saying that Railco bushes are fitted on ABS models only, on the top swivel bush - the ABS sensor being mounted in the inner bearing pin which is bigger than the taper roller kind. Both sorts have shims so you need a representative sample of shims if you are changing swivel bearings, otherwise, just recover the shims and replace them.
Note that you don't have to get the swivel off to change just the half-shaft.
If you do have a railco-fitted one it'd make sense to change them while doing all the rest,unless they're known to be recent, as they do wear eventually and it's the same amount of work to change the buggers if in 6 months time it fails the test on a dodgy swivel bearing.
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Austin Shackles wrote:

But before you jump in there just check that, if this is an oiled swivel, that there is actually sufficient oil present. I shut mine up with a little squirt!
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