Over the weekend spotted oil leaking from the drivers side end of the front axle - around the steel 'hemisphere (sorry - still not literate in L/R Parts Terminology!).
Have suspected a worn front u/j for a few weeks as there is a very occasional 'clonk' when pulling away from stationary....
Are the two things related and any thoughts on repair costs?
Also - have suspected a steering pump faul and the car 'squeeks and whistles' - but noticed today that the noise disapeers under braking! Again - any thoughts? Or is this just a squeeking brake pad...
Any help much appreciated - before I run off and swap the Landy for a Jap 4 X 4! ;o)
The oil leaking from the driver side swivel is unfortunately a feature of owning a Land Rover - get some of the one-shot thixotropic grease and replace the oil with it and it should cease being a problem. If it stays a problem then you need the swivel seals replaced. Not the end of th eworld.
As for your squeaking I'd guess either a stuck brake pad in which case the car should pull nastily to one side when you're braking hard due to the pad and disk heating, or more likely a small stone caught between the brakes and the disk.
It's possible they could be related but not if you have a worn UJ - the nearest UJ is on the propshaft....
Jack the vehicle up at that side and, holding the wheel at the top and the bottom, push and pull across the wheel to see if you get any movement or clunks. If you do, get someone to push the brake pedal and see if the noise/movement stops.
Movement that doesn't go away when the brake pedal is pressed is caused by the swivel housing bearings - you need to readjust them (they use shims) to the correct tolerances. This movement also allows the swivel housing oil seal to move away from the chrome ball causing oil leaks.
Movement that does go away when the brake pedal is pressed is caused by the wheel bearings, the wheel bearings need adjusting and/or replacing. This won't cause oil on teh swivel but will cause oil to run down the inside of the brake disk in some cases.
If you don't get any movement then either fill the swivel with one shot grease or replace the oil seal.
Could be, does it pull to one side under braking ?
Using a 15-foot drop onto the keyboard for his 'killer app" in Marble Madness, Iain Ogilvie defied grammatical chance laws and spewed out...
Check condition of 'swivel'. If chrome is not pitted badly, buy swivel seal. Cut in half. gently prise sideways (like one turn of coil spring), slip over axle, bolt into place, making sure slit in seal points upwards. If oil leak is from outside of wheel, gasket on halfshaft or something else.... One-shot grease from LR ( got spec for grease somewhere) works mainly (supposed to be unsuitable for Series, but 2shots works fine (May be an anomaly - EP140 thicker - takes longer to run out....
More likely to be (poss_ rear a-frame b/j, worn bushes, propshaft u/j (here I'm assuming you meant the LR-terminated "CV-joint" thingy inside axle), check shock bushes too. - check " Re: Steering drifting " thread for a full list.
On or around Mon, 17 May 2004 23:45:46 +0100, "Iain Ogilvie" enlightened us thusly:
The clonk could be a CV joint, the oil is apt to be a dodgy swivel seal. You don't have to get the swivel off to do the CV joint. If it's not leaking much (unlike my new one) then you might get away with draining the oil and filling instead with 1-shot grease.
Mugging an experienced pair of hands on its way home from a dip in the typing pool, Austin Shackles gave us this ransom note...
I got shown this by an old LR expert, and it came in handy when I got a customer-'fixed' oil leak in. He'd managed to kink the seal, but had also managed to take everything else apart and fit it back together successfully. This 'fix' worked perfectly, and took minutes. It's still working. I'm not advocating short-cuts unless they work IME, but in this case I was halfway up a mountainside and needs must. If it doesn't work for you, all you've lost is a few pence. If it does, you've saved how long? If a seal's gone, there may be other problems, but if it's all that's needed to keep the vehicle going until you get it up in the air with all wheels off and shouting "Major Service", go for it! I've seen a pitted swivel "fixed" with araldite (or similar) and sandpaper and a seal and a hacksaw. Owner had no money but lots of time.It lasted as long as it needed (I wouldn't do it, just in case any foreign bodies end up in casing, but it did work) The seal isn't critical (in the sense of 'safety-critical', not necessary-critical - see how long the oil stays in if it's not there...), under no pressure and could even be seen the same way as old-style split-boots (try replacing a cv boot on a
405(yuk,ptooie!,torch,find a cliff) - it's a workaround that works and may be considered a 'proper fix' (even if a temporary one - I see it as such, but it has IME worked well enough to be considered permanent......
On or around Wed, 19 May 2004 08:43:26 +0100, weallhatebillgates enlightened us thusly:
may give it a shot.
next question: Paddocks list 2 seals for the disco, different sizes, for "early" and "later" or somesuch. The "later" one is the same as the one on the 110, which I happen to have a new one for which didn't need fitting after all.
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