Fuel Filter Changing on a 300Tdi

fanie posted ...

I just did a full (66k) service on my 300 Tdi and literally swapped the fuel filter for a new one .. wiped a bit of diesel oil around the o-ring seal, turned the key and turned it on .. ran fine for a minute, had a few 'odd' moments for a minute, then settled down and went fine .. I presume it 'self-purged' the air .. ;)

It does help a little .. the best trick is to make sure you have a wide, read very f***ing wide receptacle for the sump oil ... and for the residual oil from the old oil filter. I did it all laid down beneath the Disco, if you can raise it, even if only on ramps, I guess it would be significantly easier ... ;)

Standard recommendation is 6000 miles of on-road use. For those of us that do venture off-road, especially regularly, a service every 3000 miles is far preferable, and a check after every excursion recommended .. ;)

Yes, it does say this in the manual. I stick with 10 to 20 seconds after a fast, hard run, and have had no problems whatsoever. In general running, and certainly when not having been run hard, say above 3000 rpm, then I just switch off almost straight away .. couple of seconds at most.

On or around Mon, 17 May 2004 11:56:36 +0100, "Paul - xxx" enlightened us thusly:

I can't see how the turbo run-down takes more than about 10-20 seconds.

however - idling for a couple of minutes might disperse *heat* from the turbo...

in the old days, of Commer and Foden 2-stroke diesel lorries, they had lots of problems with running hot and being shut off too quickly - extra heat warped the heads, or something. leaving 'em idle a couple of minutes brought the temperature down.

"Paul - xxx" wrote in news:2grk5vF5jambU1@uni- berlin.de:

Erm, well, yes.

I allowed my 300Tdi's sump oil to drain thoroughly while I went for a cup of tea, which is not a bad idea. Just remember to screw the drain plug in before re-filling....

Now how do I know that, I wonder? :(

Derry

Friend of mine has seen a small tray in use that covers the axle under the filter and allows the oil to drain into the container. Saves the axle getting covered, anyone heard of this ??

John H

Dont know if the filter is in the same place, but on my defender I used an old roasting dish under the filter, balanced on the top of the axle. This caught most of the oil that came out.

I've a 300 Tdi CSW as well, roasting dish sounds a good idea. The difference with what I was told was that it clamped or fitted the axle and was pretty steady, not sure if it was a commercial product or a home made effort. Anything that stops me fouling the drive will do, I suppose I ought to put a bit of thought into it !! Trouble is I only changed it every 6000 but now decided to change at 3000 as it has hit 65000 mls.

John H

I found the roasting dish stayed put without being clamped on.

I'm gonna start changing mine at 3000 too as it's now on 148,000 and I want it to last for a while yet. I fitted one of them easy drain plug thingys from difflock where screwing on a drain pipe opens up the valve and the oil just runs down the pipe into your container, no messing.

Don't know if it works yet though, another 1000 miles to do first.

Twas 17 May 2004 16:30:30 GMT when Simon Barr put finger to keyboard producing:

Alright alright, 226k miles and oil was last done 5k ago..

I'll try and get to it next week ok?

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

I thought we were talking about changing the fuel filter! After changing it needs priming, there is a small bleed screw on the top, slacken this and then press the arm on the mechanical pump until fuel is seen. You wont get those odd moments if you do this.

Peter.

Use the neighbour's drive?

You have'nt seen the neighbour :-))

I put the thin up on a pair of ramps to drain the sum and raise a 2 gallon bucket to just below the rear track arm which conveniently catches the oil for you and spreads it around. The oil from the filter I catch in a 1 gallon plastic container with a big square hole in the side, it's flexible enough to squash under the filter yet big enough to catch all the oil and not spill when removed..

Peter

Thanks all for the advice.

I like the idea of using the neighbours drive! I did my series 3 last weekend around the side of the house. Nice big patches of oil on the grass.

I shall have a poke around and look for this bleed screw as I dont like the idea of the injector pump cavitating on air. Like some of the respondents I need this wagon to carry on for quite some time.

I will be going off to a local game park this weekend so I shall probably wait until I get back to give it a good going over and then I can pressure clean all the oil that I inevitably spill all over the show. Do you have access to paraffin over in Eng? I find that it works a treat as a degreaser and removes all that oil all over the show. When I worked as a cycle mechanic in London I asked a local hardware outlet for paraffin and he looked at me like I was barmy.

Regards Stephen

significantly

On or around 17 May 2004 13:43:50 GMT, Derry Argue enlightened us thusly:

I bet we've all done that one.

on a V8 don't take the oil filter off with the sump empty.

On or around 17 May 2004 16:30:30 GMT, Simon Barr enlightened us thusly:

now that's an idea. do they do one for the V8?

Sorry for hijacking the thread. Didn't we start talking Oil filters somewhere along the line?

I'd be very suprised if they didn't, they make them for most other engines.

Check out their site

Ah, you need to change the magnum... .357 always impresses ;)

Yes, got one on the Disco. Never actually used it, because after fitting it I discovered Warren, and it isn't worth getting myself mucky any more :-)