Gutless wonder....

TonyB uttered summat worrerz funny about:

That should sort it ;-)

Lee D

Less than 2m from me!!!

Nige

Should do as a mooring weight for me boat....

....although it's the right price for you Lee!

TonyB

Two metres? You're standing in his shed? :)

Stuart

I think he's gone undercover as a rear diff

TonyB uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Yeah too right.. I have a spare though, seemed sensible given 3 out of the 4 have v8's :-)

Lee

There are other types?

On or around Wed, 5 Jul 2006 21:33:47 +0100, "TonyB" enlightened us thusly:

block off the EGR pipe... might be stuck open. EGR isn't really needed if the engine's in good nick.

I assume you've already done all the stuff about checking that the throttle is in fact opening the pump fully and so forth?

oh, and ditch the cat from the exhaust and fit a non-cat front pipe, available from beamends and others. makes a world of difference.

Tony, I don't know if you've seen this:

Julian.

I've a bit of experience with this--farm machinery during harvest--and I reckon it's worth checking the air filter. Mostly, though, you're running those at full throttle. A combine harvester soaks up a lot of power.

Thanks Julian and all, I'll give some of those suggestions a try. It's a great relief to know that the vehicle can be made a little livlier. Thanks again TonyB

I was not aware that 300tdi's had egr. I am in South Africa and I have a 96 Disco. Would this likely hae EGR and where would I look to confirm. If so I would like to remove it soonest. Any ideas on the proceedure for that?

Regards Stephen

On or around Thu, 6 Jul 2006 20:08:18 +0100, "TonyB" enlightened us thusly:

you do know, I assume, how delicate the pump fuel ratio adjustment is? half a turn goes from gutless to smokescreen.

If you've had my instruction file about it, then you should have already replaced the air cleaner...:-)

good point from whomever about ambient conditions - having run NADs around the same route throughout the year, they go best when it's cold, dry and frosty and worst when it's warm and wet. dry conditions and about -8 makes a noticeable difference.

The difference is mostly in the air, I think. cold air is denser, and so has more atoms of oxy per litre. warm air has less and air that's 20% water vapour has much less...

I've no idea with a 300tdi. But on my other Diesels I've just pulled (and plugged) the vacuum line that pulls the EGR valve open, to physically remove the valve and plumbing would be quite complex and time consuming. Plus, you may want to put it back to normal if you sell the vehicle, or for emission testing. It doesn't matter in the UK, because the EGR valve merely reduces oxides of nitrogen emissions - this is not part of the test, just black smoke at present.

Also, I understand that long term, EGR soots up the inlet manifold and back of the intake valves leading to constriction. (oily crankcase breather fumes and exhaust soot mixture = a nasty goo that sticks well!)

Julian.

Oh yes, i've been trying a quarter turn at a time, it's such an easy adjustment that trial and error is a fine method for this one.

Well, checked it anyway. It appears to be brand new, in keeping with it's full dealer service history.

I'm going to try the tweak mention n the LR forum by ?Julian, the torx screw under the cover, once I've had time to digest the info fully.

Thanks again TonyB

Thanks Austin, I will try some cleaner but as you say there's no trouble when on boost. I have now tweaked up the torx screw under the cap on the diaphragm a few turns plus a small tweak on the main fuel screw at the back of the pump. It'll get a good test tomorrow on the way to work, but I don't think I've over-done it as the tickover didn't change. TonyB

There's a Welsh cover on top of the diaphragm, needs gentle levering off and under is a torx screw held by a locknut. It's said to control fuel delivery at pre-boost level. Screwing it in increases the delivery of fuel. Reccommended is two turns, but I've turned mine in increments until we ar now up to about three turns. There is a slight improvement but no smoke at low revs so I'll keep going.

Also, it seems possible to adjust the full load supply by removing the diaphragm and turning a needle which controils the fuel stop lever. At the same time, nearby, is said to be a star wheel adjustment. I haven't tried these two yet as they both control on-boost fuel supply and I don't have a problem with that.

TonyB

On or around Sun, 9 Jul 2006 23:12:36 +0100, "TonyB" enlightened us thusly:

hmmm. the thing with the diaphragm is to do with the response to boost pressure, I think, isn't it? You probably need to tweak that and the main one in opposite directions - up the fuelling on the main thing, and reduce the boost response one so it doesn't smoke at higher revs/load? Note, I've not tried this, but it might be a thing to consider.

On or around Sun, 9 Jul 2006 23:17:28 +0100, "TonyB" enlightened us thusly:

ah, OK, ignore my other post. I've never investigated.