landrovers and rust

Hello,
I have been reading the messages for some time, following my decision to get a landrover, probably a 110.
There seem to be a number of messages concerning rust.
Is this a major problemm with the 110? Do disco's rust less?
Is there a year after which the rust proofing was improved?
Is it just those that have done a lot of work through mud or near the sea or is the tendancy in all of them?
Also, when going to look, are there main areas where the problems will appear first?
Thanks
--
Regards

Keith Barrett
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It depends on how you define "major problem" ! All LR products will have some minor rust on the chassis (probably surface rust) and there is likely to be either evidence of, or the start of, electrolitic corrossion where steel meets alloy. Bulkheads on 110/90's will probably be starting to rust internally, even if it hasn't shown itself externally yet.
I guess 10 years isn't bad. Of course, an Audi or Volvo of similar years will probably be totally rust free - as will most other modern vehicles.
No personal experience of Disco ownership although a friends one certainly has lots of electro. corr. - also some evidence of serious rusting at the rear wheel arches. Like Rangies I guess.

ROFLOL! What rust proofing was that then?

Much does depend on how they've been used and looked after, certainly avoid anything you suspect has been driven in salt water or on a beach. Mud traps salt etc so anything that hasn't been frequently hosed off / cleaned underneath will probably be worth looking at carefully.

Chassis. especially the rear, notably around the cross-member and also (on 110's anyway) the bit where it curves down just at the rear. Front, by the bumper attachment / dumb irons. Bulkhead corners. ANY rust there is NEVER "just surface rust sir" - it's come from inside.
Rear capping pieces will have rusted (and probably been repainted if you're buying from a dealer!) as they stopped galvanising them for a while. I think the later ones went back to galvy.
Don'tget too hung up about a bit of minor surface rusting on the chassis - but get very hung up about bulk-head rust.

Have fun - bring a hammer and dont be afriad to use it on the chassis. A magnet will reveal filler type botches on bulkheads.
Mike.
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EEk I have bulkhead rust should I go out and hang myself then? I am sure there is nothing that can't be welded, plugged or covered up. Right now the holes are a sort of declaration of rugged assurance,
--
Larry

"No man is an island, entire of itself; every man is a piece of the
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As you will find once you go digging, there will be a lot of welding, plugging or covering up to do!

chassis -

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On or around Sat, 31 Jan 2004 14:23:30 -0000, Keith Barrett

rah!
yes...
some of them, some of them.

not really. unless you're talking quite new ones.

neither thing helps

110: rear chassis crossmember, rear chassis abaft the axle at the bottom of the curved bits, outriggers, bulkhead esp. top corners and sometimes doorposts.
disco: chassis as 110, bulkhead OK mostly, rear floor and rear wheelarch, in fact floor generally.
on most LRs, there are enough oil leaks to keep the front main chassis sound...
but take each as you find it, some are quite old and very good, others are newer and crap.
engine-wise, the 200 and 300 TDi are the ones to go for if you don't want a V8. All the 200 and 300 TDi 5-speeders up to about 1997 (Not sure of exact date) can suffer wear on the output shaft of the gearbox, where it goes into the transfer box. excessive clonks, clunks, clanks from the middle of the car when changing gear are a bad sign on a high-mileage one. The fault was eventually rememdied with a "corss-drilled gear", which can be fitted to older boxes - *evidence* (not just verbal) of such fitment is good, but wait and see if the seller mentions it, it's a good selling point.
Ideally, if you're not experienced in LRs, get someone to go with you to look at 'em who is.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Remember that to change your mind and follow him who sets you right
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Keith,
I think it is fair to say that Defenders/110's DO rust, especially on the chassis members, which even now, only seem to get a thin spray coat at the factory (WHY don't they galvanise the bloody chassis???)
So, people buy these things, and then get a bit of a shock when they look underneath. The thing is, the chassis is made from really heavy guage metal, so the rust you may see is rarely a problem (at least for the first 10-15 years or so.!)
You have to remember that the 110 is a working vehicle and your average farmer/utility company/army regiment doesn't take it back after 5 years complaining that the underside isn't as rust free as a BMW.... They use the thing, work it hard, them throw it away.
The other problem of course is electrolytic corrosion between the steel/aluminium components. This can be a problem, and is difficult to completely stop. Just keep the road salt hosed off whenever possible.
Peter Moreton 1972 SIII (on original chassis!)

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