MOT again....

Not hard to fit as such, but a pain in the bum. The Genine pars ones are pre-bent, but they are then coiled up. It's probably easier to bend new ones at they are fitted.

It is - ANR1799

There's no fixed number/thickness.

Call me a cynic but the two jobs above are ones that DIY'ers tend to avoid doing themselves.........

I'll pass on that without being able to see it!

Richard

Scuse the dodge pic... Camera Phone....

Which is the bellhousing area. so you need to identify the oil type. If engine oil, then it's the crank rear oil seal. If gearbox oil, then it's either the front bearing cover plate or the input shaft seal. Badger.

Chickens!! All 3 are relatively easy jobs, just need a little thought and planning. Which 2 of the 3 were you referring to, anyway? Badger.

In message , Mark Solesbury writes

You can buy them ready made from LR and others or have them made up using kunifer pipe

Yes a sealed unit as for being an hours work....think again. I have done Loads ( it's my job) If every thing is going right it can be done in less than an hour, But on an '87 RRC I can assure you that it won't go right. And really you should leave it to someone who know what they are doing. I am not trying to be negative with that comment just helpful ! It will be money well spent.

No two cars are the same and it is a matter of feel to get it right.

If the oil is black it is coming from the rear main oil seal it is not detrimental at all unless it is a manual then in very bad cases it can mess up the clutch. If it is red then it is coming from the gearbox (sometimes difficult to tell oil colour I know) now you know about the leak it is not detrimental because you can check and top up the level. Either way the box will have to come out to fix.

Good luck

Unless of course it's neither black nor white in which case it may be clutch fluid from a leaky slave cylinder, even easier, box doesn't have to come out for that. Easy to check, see if it washes off your finger with just water, 'cos brake fluid does just that!

HTH Martin

I'll just answer that one I sold Peggy my Rangie two years ago - I am still waiting for the brake pipe I ordered from the dealer 6 months before that but I wont blame them! After waiting a week the parts manager phoned LR parts while I was there and they promised next truck I phoned them 2 days later and they promised me yes next truck and the next week we both phoned LR parts and were promised etc etc in the end I had only 3 out of the 4 pipes I ordered. (thank god for pre mot tests)

So no dont bother get a flareing kit a roll of kunifer brake pipe and do your own. A) its a lot cheaper one pipe on its own (the bends one down the wing)was about £15 B) kunifer is lovely to work with -the front to rear section is not to extreme to bend - the nasties are down the inner wing and through the bulkhead fitting , a real swine to get past the manifold, cables etc. C) if you haven't already replaced it the fuel pipe gets nasty over the rear part of the chassis so the leftover kunifer will come in handy - saying that I can't remember if its larger bore than the brake lines buy some clips while you are at it they get brittle and will snap when you try to remove the old pipes

Derek