mystery clutch leak

Hi all,

my clutch is leaking very slowly and very sneakily!

I've got a 109/110 hybrid (best of both worlds -- all the charm and grace of a 109, sitting on a 110 coil frame!) running a 4.0 petrol/R380/LT230. It takes about a week to empty the clutch reservoir out and it doesn't hold much - maybe 1/4 cup (~60ml) or so.

I've looked around both the master and slave cylinders and all the pipe fittings; there's no evidence of leakage there. From what I've gathered it could be leaking into the bellhousing, right? The fix for this appears to replacement of the slave cylinder. Is this a reasonably easy job for a new owner who hasn't done much wrench turning in the last 20 years or so?

Any advice or suggestions welcome!

Thanks!

-Chris Estes-

Reply to
chris.estes
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It's a very easy job to do, with just one gotcha.

Someone posted here a couple of weeks ago after changing their slave cylinder and they'd managed to detach the clutch lever from its pivot inside the bell housing.

Google for a post titled "300tdi slave cylinder BEWARE" for details.

Reply to
Simon Barr

Here's a copy of the original article-

Following my misdemeanour with my clutch slave cylinder replacement - thankyou those of you that offered help - the sad fact is that this apparently benign activity CAN result in splitting the gearbox / engine unit.

The post that the release arm sits on will come away from the bellhousing remarkably easily and cannot be put back without opening the bellhousing. I could not believe this either but it was confirmed by two of my local LR dealerships, it has happened in the past to each of them.

To reduce the chance of this happening, remove the two bolts from the slave cylinder to bellhousing and whilst supporting the body of the cylinder have someone put their foot slowly on the clutch pedal to eject the pushrod from the slave cylinder. Once you can get hold of the pushrod, slide the cylinder right off. The problem occurs if you simply pull the cylinder away from the bellhousing; because the dust cap "grips" the pushrod it effectively also pulls the release arm away from its pivot post, with the danger it actually comes off. At the very least, you risk detaching the pushrod from the release arm, not quite as disastrous but still to be avoided!!

Hopefully this will stop others from suffering the frustration that I have just experienced. One other note, if you are splitting the g'box from the engine for some other reason, consider modifying the pivot fixing into the bellhousing; I have now tapped an M4 grub screw into the side of the pivot pin to make it very difficult to come out in an unplanned manner.

Reply to
Paul

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