New chassis?

snipped-for-privacy@adviegundogs.co.uk uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Surely this has to be a joke?

Has it been used in salt water? I've a 1964 IIa on the drive that is looking like it needs a new chassis, that is acceptable.

Anyone know what thickness or not (as the case appears) Landrover used on the more modern 90 such as these?

Lee D

Welcome back, Derry.

There's some past history on this 90, Lee. Brake callipers so corroded that the pads fell out the back come to mind.

It can be a one man job. I re-chassied a IIa single-handed with just a cheap engine crane for the heavier lifts. This however was a total rebuild from little bits: were you thinking of lifting the whole body off in one piece? (Practice for your D3 when it comes along!)

Whether or not it will be worth it is another matter. Only you know the state of the rest of it but with the work you've previously put in it might make sense.

Oh goodness me! My local Land Rover specialist was right. They don't make them like they used to. He did mention that 1990's chassis rusted badly but I never imagined that they were *that* bad.

My 1984 went through this years MOT with just a small patch on an outrigger. Its first. The engine however is not getting any better. But it got through the MOT [sympathetic tester maybe] and to my amazement it is still in daily use. I do have an Isuzu engine in reserve, just in case. The chassis is certainly good enough despite a wash once a year [guess when ;-) ] and being permanently blasted with cowshit all Summer and salty water for four months every Winter.

Huw

I'd hazard a guess this vehicle worked through the Foot & Mouth episode, in which case it was probably well doused with the antisceptic, which is an amazing rust enhancer if not washed off. That stuff has finished off a huge number of vehicles of all makes. Richard

No joke, I assure you!

BTW, somehow I lost Xnews and can't get it working again. I am now using Agent so excuse me if I make mistakes as this is only my second post.

This D90 was an ex-gamekeeper's vehicle. I believe the man got sacked because of the state it was in! I washed a ton of dirt out of the chassis which probably included half a ton of road salt!

Actually, most of the vehicle is OK. It is the chassis which is shot. Yes, you are right, the rear brake calipres were so worn the pads fell right through!

A very annoying thing hapened when I took this D90 for an MOT. I had put one front brake pad in back-to-front (late nights, too much work, etc) so the tester cancelled the test half way through declaring the disc was "heavily scored" and unsafe. Wot, after only 10 miles? I've driven several hundred in my youth with brake pads worn down to the metal backing!!!

Anyway, I took the Land Rover to another tester who agreed with me that the discs were not "heavily scored". In fact, it is OK and only very slightly scored. The thing is, if I had gone back to complete the test at the first garage, they would have insisted on replacing the disc before even looking at it. But the vehicle still would have failed. Who needs brakes to test a chassis? I told them they have lost a good customer as I have been going there for years. Stupid people!

Considering purchasing a chassis from Strathearn Engineering, Perthshire and doing it myself. After all, I am in no hurry! I hope to call in on them tomorrow. Maybe there are books, videos, etc. of this job?

Derry

Strathearn, that's Alan Crow's old place, yes? I've heard good things about their chassis but never seen one in the flesh myself. Badger.

Changing the chassis on a 90 is largely a one man job, I've done two now. I say largely, but you will need two or more people occassionally. Roof and top sides off together, two people. Body tub off, two people but easier with more, especially when re-assembling and you dont want to scratch any new paint. Bonnet, wings, doors etc one person. Windscreen, one person. Engine and gearbox, engine crane. get/borrow/hire the right crane and it will also do to lift the bulkhead off with steering column. Chassis can be lifted off each axle by one person with a good back. Best thing really is to have a son/wife/whatever on hand for the odd few minutes when you do need two people.

Gordon

With his nice new shiney shed, it may be worth considering hiring a hoist and lifting whole body in one go - I've done this for Series vehicles, but not a Defender. Lindsay Porters' book "Guide to Restoration - Series II & III" provides some good general info on how to go about this - I've not seen his Defender version of the book, it may be more up-to-date.

Richard

On or around Mon, 6 Nov 2006 22:51:01 -0000, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

"beamendsltd" >>

Most did. Mine certainly did although the Isuzu had more dousings than the LR. Both are still on the road although the Isuzu chassis is more corroded. Not terminal by a long way. Maybe if they used phosphoric acid at the wrong dilution then it could have a very corrosive effect. This same stuff is what Wurth alloy wheel cleaner is made of.

Huw

It depends on the quality of the steel too. The last Series III's, from 1980 to 84, used cheap Belgian steel to save money.......

Richard

On or around 7 Nov 2006 01:45:23 -0800, "gordon" enlightened us thusly:

I'd use the crane again, for that :-)

Thanks! Just the sort of information I need! I hope to be able to call in on Strathearn Engineering tomorow when I made the dog meat run.

I generally work alone and am well able to make full use of pulleys, ratchet straps, levers, etc. That, and a knowledge of knots, I'd suggest ought to be part of compulsory "life science" classes in school, but probably never will be!

Derry

The thought did cross my mind. Perhaps suspending an "endless chain" from one of the RSJ supports. They seem pretty tough. I ran the MF135 into one the other day when getting it under cover after several years under a tree. Started first go but the clutch had stuck to the fly wheel. Fortunately, I was not going fast and the tractor stalled on impact. It is an exciting life around here! (Clutch plate now unstuck. Starter removed, brake fluid squirted onto plate, then tractor left in gear with a concrete block on the clutch pedal. Three weeks later, all unstuck).

Derry

I did a 110 this summer in my garden. Lifted the body off as one piece, rolled the chassis out, switched all the gear to new chassis and rolled it back under. All lifting work done with just a high lift jack though I wouldnt recomend it if you have an alternative. I used a galvanised chassis from Richard Chassis and everything fitted just fine

Gerald

Again, thanks.

I must admit I am beginning to warm to the task! I was wondering how to lift the body off in one piece. Still, plenty of time to think this out as I have to sell the hay first to make room in the barn. I welded a new rear cross member onto my 200Tdi but that was easy enough because the old tub to be removed was already bent. I did get a lift from a friend to put the new one on. Not nearly as difficult to do as I thought it would be. And I have the luxury of the barn with a nice new level and even concrete floor! (Glad I decided to put that in instead of the rammed earth my neighbour suggested). My experience with jacks and levers is to be content with very small movements and lots of them.

Derry

Remove doors and pull seals away from upper edges, pass substantial wooden baton through with padding for seal channel at top, disconnect *everything!* and lift body in one go on the baton. Worked on my 110. Might need to rig up a couple of steady-ropes to get the balance correct though.

Indeed. Much less chance of damage that way. :-) Badger.

On or around Tue, 7 Nov 2006 18:54:53 -0000, "Idris" enlightened us thusly:

Interesting, I didn't know it was possible with 90/110 type bodies. That's almost exactly what I want to do here; except that I had in mind selling the bits of bodywork afterwards; it might be easier to lift the body first though and dismantle it later. Probably more likely to sell in bits than as a complete CSW body.

On or around Tue, 7 Nov 2006 23:42:02 -0000, "Badger" enlightened us thusly:

Cool. sounds like a plan for the one I'm going to do soon. There's a time limit on the grand conversion plan now: the MOT on the tranny is out in the beginning of march, so converting it before then will avoid unnecessary expense in MOT fees.