P38s, flat batteries and WiFi

That damnable heap of tin has found a new trick. If I park outside the house and the WiFi runs in the house the BeCM never shuts off and the battery goes flat.

I'd heard about the problem with airport radars killing P38s in the carpark like that so it wasn't hard to figure but what do I do now?

All suggestions happily received but currently rolling it on it's roof and torching it seems favourite. Yes I do have a battery cut out switch but resetting everything is a pain. Could I just switch the radio-key module? Should I build one with better selectivity? Help!!!

nigelH

Reply to
Nigel Hewitt
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There is a replacement RF receiver part available from LR that fixes this problem. Easy replacement. I'm sure someone on here will be able to tell you the part no.

Matt

Reply to
Matthew Maddock

Presumably the radio key is 455 Mhz ?

Steve

Reply to
steve

Maybe but WiFi isn't.

Reply to
GbH

P38 fob works on 433Mhz - like a lot of other remote/wireless products - tho as you correctly pointed out, not WiFi! More likely something else in the house on 433Mhz, or perhaps next door?

Matt

Reply to
Matthew Maddock

Exactly. 2.4 Gig-ish AFAIK, so not too hard to filter out, if you have the right tech.

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

A mate of mine traced it to a faulty ballast in a street light giving off some hooky frequencies. He found out by kicking it. (not the car!) It turned off the light due to failure of the ballast & it worked fine.

Reply to
Nige

Just checked around - part number YWY500170 Don't accept a different part number because the previously "fixed" replacement part still didn't solve the issue fully!

Matt

Reply to
Matthew Maddock

My neighbour had a heavy handed postman who jammed in his wireless doorbell and upon returning home was unable to lock his Rangie.

Reply to
Rob

If the receiver was a metal box with a coax input I'm sure I could filter it but the RAVE disk draws a plastic lump so filtering might be a problem.

Fiddling about with a spectrum analyser shows the key on 430 MHz... and 860 and 1290 and probably more. Clearly not the most EMC piece of work. Interestingly I don't see much at 2400 but I suspect I need to make the network pump some files back and forth for that.

Would I be right in assuming the code stuff is in the BeCM and the lump on the aerial is just a receiver? Also can anybody do me the good and bad part numbers? Darn it can sombody sell me one? nigelh at combro dot co dot uk quote P38 to bypass the spam trap

nigelH

Reply to
Nigel Hewitt

Magic. On the case

nigelH

Reply to
Nigel Hewitt

Your neighbours doorbell must have a damn good range if it reached to the postman's house, or does he live next door aswell?

Reply to
SimonJ

Aswell?

We seem to be as bad as each other.

Reply to
Rob

Will post here for future ref. Original part number AFR1953. Fixed, but not quite part number YWY500010. The unit is just a plug-in "stupid" box so no problem replacing - it won't require re-coding or any other such trickery.

Matt

Reply to
Matthew Maddock

Also can anybody do me the good and

From rangerovers.net

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Note also that Land Rover belatedly recognized this problem and has had two attempts at curing it. A partial official fix from Land Rover became available in 2004 from the UK dealer network whereby the stock RF receiver (Part # AFR1953) was superceded by a new one (YWY500010). Gunnar Arthursson reports that this receiver was less subject to interference, but did not completely cure the interference problem. Accordingly, it has since been superceded by an even newer design, part number YWY500170. Gunnar reportst that Owners with this latest update have not reported any further problem.

HTH

David

Reply to
rads

I have the YWY....170 receiver and whilst it has not locked me out of the car so far (6 months or so, touch wood), the range that the fob now works really is cr*p. Sometimes it will work from 20' away & the next time you have to be stood on one leg with the fob to your head and one hand on the rear side window.

Cheers, Chris.

Reply to
chris

Well a few weeks down the line from fitting the new part as advised and everything seems wonderful. No walking out and discovering the battery, despite its size, is flat as a pancake with the usual 'keycode lockout' problem when you recharge it. The problem is that I walk to work and the truck sits at home so any drain adds up between runs.

Thanks one and all.

nigelH

Reply to
Nigel Hewitt

On or around Tue, 6 Feb 2007 12:44:13 -0000, "Nigel Hewitt" enlightened us thusly:

How's the suspension project going?

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Badly.

What I need is some daylight when I am at home. The new processor works well and tells me I have dodgy opperation of the rear right gas solenoid and that it only works some of the time (being in the dealer's yard being a time when it works) but I haven't traced the break yet. I asked the dealer change the plug going into valve block as wiggling the cables in that area seemed to effect things but that didn't make any difference. However the cable, suspiciously, doesn't seem any tighter so if I discover they changed the plastic shell (obviously OK) and left all the 10 year old crimps I shall be seriously annoyed.

Also one of the sensors reads differently to the others on the multi-meter but it seems to track correctly when I manually pump the thing up and down so perhaps it's a later model.

I still suspect an intermittent connection in the harness but no 'smoking gun' yet. I can just see after all these years of agro and expense that it's going to be a 10p crimp to fix it in the end. Life's like that.

nigelH

Reply to
Nigel Hewitt

On or around Tue, 6 Feb 2007 14:31:31 -0000, "Nigel Hewitt" enlightened us thusly:

's getting there. still light enough to walk across the yard without running into stuff at gone 6, here, today.

promising...

ain't it just. Still, maybe you can sell the design once it's perfected, or make and sell suspension processor boxes?

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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