If by 'inhibitor' you mean one of those anti-rust devices surely cutting the
juice off to it while parked negates the whole idea of having it in the car?
I found the availability and pricing of 6 volt batteries to fit my '70 B-GT
to be troublesome, so I switched to a single modern style 12v battery and
have had no troubles since. If capacity were an issue, given a current
drain while parked, I'd just pop another 12v in the other bin and wire to
give a total of 12. The modern 12v battery cost far less than a single 6
volt relic and for the past 2 seasons it has worked finer than frog-hair
with no signs of the traditional Joe Lucas power shortage.
I have obtained a battery isolator switch and have fitted it to the
vertical bulkhead in front of the battery box. It has a red plastic
key that can be turned through fourty five degree and removed. This
completely isolates the batteries.
The problem up to now is a security immobilisor switch that disables
the starter. It drawns power from the batteries night and day. It has
a jack plug that allows you 30 seconds to start the car. With the new
switch the car can be garaged without running down the batteries.
Now there are a couple of things not sure if its possible for yourself,
but I have one installed.
The Landrovers and Jaguars have an electronic isolator installed by the
factory pre delivery. This is removed by the dealer in the pre delivery
This relay is normally discarded by the dealer. So if you ask a dealer
they may be willing to give you one.
Pt No. YWB500140. Branded PM2 also has the Landrover or Jaguars logos
printed on them. (you will also need the plug which fits, this is in the
cars wiring harness so they can't give you that.)
URL for them is http://www.blpcomp.com/news/view.php?idA
Now prior to these electronic ones being fitted there was a manual
isolator fitted which had a big switch and two lengths of battery cable
about 30cm long with the pos and neg terminals. This also just slipped
on and isolated the battery.
Why don't you get a battery conditioner? They aren't just chargers, they're
designed to maintain batteries in cars garaged for long periods.
Basically you connect it like a charger but rather than just keep the
battery charged it simulates use and keeps the battery in top shape.
Yes, I've seen farmers do this with a simple knife switch on the
battery post. Easiest and cheapest.
An alternative is a small trickle charger that's left plugged in while
the car stands. If parked outdoors there are now small solar units
that plug into the cigarette lighter.
It can take weeks to find what's drawing off your battery. (I assume
that's what you mean by inhibitor). With a volt meter you should read
0 volts between the negative post and the metal frame of the car. If
you get voltage you can start to pull fuses one by one. When it drops
to 0 you've found the grounded/leaking circuit. From there you can
start searching. Sometimes a light bulb will be barely on which can
only be seen in pitch darkness. Jiggling the wires in total darkness
will sometimes show up a spark. When examined this reveals a skinned
wire or partial connection. Lucas- the prince of darkness. Best of
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