Poor heater on 110 CSW V8

Hi Landy fans

The heater never gets hot on my 110 and I though it might just be air locked or blocked. I spent a large amount of today stripping out and checking the matrix and even tried bleeding the thing with it low behind the block (well it is a bit above the block). There doesn't appear to be any issues along those lines but it gets warm but nothing great. I have also changed the thermostat to see if that helps but no difference. I cant see that if the pipes are reversed it would make any difference and from all I can find theport nearest the dizzy should feed the steel pipe routed under the manifold straight to the heater matrix - the other goes via the manifold and come out the rear to the heater matrix.

Any suggestions ?

Thanks

Gizmo

Reply to
jmillerinbourne
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I don't know if it will bleed low behind the block but I usually take the top pipe off the heater, holding the pipe up and fill using this pipe until water comes out of the connection on the heater that you have disconnected (leaving the rest of the system still sealed of course). Another thing I have seen that might help is to reverse the connections on the heater which sometimes helps to unblock the matrix. Worth a try.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

A flush often helps. Disconnect both heater hoses and put a hosepipe from a tap first into one, then into the other. Leave it running for a few minutes in each.

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

What engine? The 200/300 Tdi are known for running pretty cool. It used to take my 300 Tdi Disco forever to get up to a reasonable temperature, especially in cold weather. If it's a V8, you've got a problem!

Reply to
Rich B

The clue's in the subject line.

Reply to
hugh

I fear the V8 in the header could just give us a clue ;)

Reply to
Nige

Once you've checked for blockages etc. as already discussed start thinking about blanking off a large part of the radiator. If you've got a working temperature gauge you're unlikely to come unstuck.

Reply to
Dougal

You say that you changed the thermostat. Did you check it (the replacement) for function? Are you able to discern a distinct warming up of the thermostat outlet connection as the 'stat opens?

Viscous fan drive? Is the fan running flat out all the time?

Reply to
Dougal

Arse :)

Reply to
Rich B

Fuck off, I've apologised once!

Reply to
Rich B

On or around Sun, 25 Jan 2009 12:50:48 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@aol.com enlightened us thusly:

a) they're never that impressive anyway, in cold weather you'll be lucky to get actual hotness.

b) as Oily said, reverse the flow in the matrix. Costs sod-all. If it works, be prepared to reverse it again later when the performance starts to go again. I know this makes no sense, but it often works.

If you have a really good mains water pressure then you can put a hosepipe onto it and give it a blast, but if your mains pressure isn't high, then don't waste your time/effort.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

In message , Austin Shackles writes

Mine gets hot enough - although it is a 98 and a 4 litre it's not that different Make sure it is actually fully opening up when control set to hot.

Reply to
hugh

On or around Mon, 26 Jan 2009 22:27:35 +0000, hugh enlightened us thusly:

that helps. The newer ones have a different heater box, dunno if that includes an updated/bigger matrix - I have a vague idea that it did. I was referring to mine, a 1985, with the traditional steel riveted box.

One other thing to investigate on an old one: check that the matrix is secure in the box. It has foam stuff around it which can disintegrate, leaving a gap where the incoming air can blow around the matrix, rather than through it.

Someone had a mod to the heaterbox which allowed you to fit to matrices, think I saw that in one of the comics.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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