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RRC brakes

After doing a 2" spring lift I needed to replace the brake flexi pipes with longer ones. That done, I tried to bleed the brakes. Tried with an Easybleed and then with the old fashioned method (pedal down, open bleed valve, close valve, pedal up etc). No matter which method, the pedal will always push to the floor with little resistance afterwards. I can also see brake fluid moving about in the master cylinder reservoir, so much so that with the cap off it will splash out. Guess the master cylinder has failed? Any other ideas before I fork out an extortionate amount for a replacement?

Alan

'88 3.5 RRC '98 4.6 RR HSE

Reply to
alan.cutler
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Any other ideas before I fork out an

I had heaps of fun with our Rangie when I replaced some front brake lines similar to your experience. They it dawned on me on day 4 in the brake bother house, under the masses of crud on the front caliper there were an extra set of nipples. DOH! Twin nipple callipers.... what ever will they think of next.....

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

In news: snipped-for-privacy@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com, snipped-for-privacy@bbc.co.uk blithered:

Shouldn't that be open, down, close, up?

Reply to
GbH

Yeah, it was actually! Though I did try the down, open (pedal sinks a bit further), close, up technique as well. Didn't help.

And yup, I did know about the twin bleed nipples on the fronts!

With the lid to the master cylinder off I can get a good blast of fluid out the top now, about 1" over the top if I push really hard and fast. That ain't right! Got a new unit on order from Rimmers. Hope that cures it.

Alan

Reply to
alan.cutler

On or around Thu, 21 Jul 2005 11:16:51 +0100, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

some of the 4-pot ones have 3 nipples - one at the top, for the top 2 pistons, and one each side half-way down, for the bottom ones. If it has 2 lines to each caliper, then they all need bleeding and there may be a correct order to do it.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Regardless of the method/equipment used, it's difficult to get a good result if the pistons are not fully back in their bores. If the pads are new this will be achieved for you. In other cases use some temporary packing (hardboard works well) to pad out any clearance between the fully pushed back piston and the disc/pad.

Also beware that you may have inherited rear pistons fitted in front callipers - there'll be a quarter of an inch of clearance behind the piston even with new pads.

Reply to
Dougal

Doh! I was only using the 2 nipples on the sides, didn't see the 3rd one on the top :( Also read through the manual (why didn't I do that first?) and there is a specific order in which to bleed them as well, including opening a side and the top nipple at the same time. I'll give that all a go and see if that cures it. Bet it does, and I've just ordered a new master cylinder.......

Alan C

Reply to
alan.cutler

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