series rebuild---- getting worried

Hi Andy, Best order to do things (might be a little late now!!): Bulkhead - loosely in place with support brackets. Rear tub Doors. Adjust height of rear tub using wedges to get doors in right place, together with adjustment of bulkhead and hinges.Once you've got the doors right, tighten everything up, including the rear tub front bolts to chassis.

Then you can fit the wings, windscreen and seatbox/floorpans. The most important part is getting the doors right early on.

Getting back to your question - provided you've got the doors right, the seatbox position doesn't matter, you can enlarge holes if neccessary here and there. The two front bolts to the chassis don't always line up easily, though the long row along the back should. If you've just bolted things on without doing the door alignment, then I'm afraid you'll have to do a certain amount of backtracking/dismantling to get the order right!! Series LRs are notoriously innacurate in sizing, following the above sequence should allow you to get things to fit, as there are so many possible adjustments here and there!! If you need any more advice, feel free to give me a shout.

All the best

Andy

hiya,

thanks for your answer, ill double check the doors in the morning,

the rear row of bolts on the seatbox is lined up fine, its the two on the chassis, i can only just see them through the seatbox bolt holes,

the edges of the seatbox dont run parallel to the side bulkhead to tub bar, does this matter,?

the doors when i last cast a judgemental eye over them, looked as though they just wanted a bit of adjustment to the hinges, so im reasonably happy i can squre them up, its just this bloody seatbox thats sat a bit squiff. everything can bolt up and fits where it should except the bloody seatbox. ive adjusted the rails at the bulkhead fixing points which made things a bit better, but its still obviously out of alignment.

A straight Landy.,.............am i hoping for too much here!!!

regards

Andy

>

I remember mine taking a fair bit of gentle persuasion (levering and hammering) to make it fit (I also built mine out of multiple different machines.)

Hi, Also doing a rebuild from new chassis... My bulkhead isn't that good, but have a very good 90 b/h standing idle. Can I use that on the SIII ? Must be a lot of differences, but is there anything that can't be got around in some way?

Thanks. Ron

hiya,

90 bulkhead into a series will go relatively straight in. just got to widen the steering apature a bit, the series clocks fit straight in as well.

i was going to do this, bought a bulkhead , started preping it, then a series came up for sale at the right price for spares,

so got that as well.

took the bulkhead out of the series, complete with everything that attaches to it, pedals, steering, wiring, the lot. made life a whole lot easier.

so ive now got a 90 bulkhead for my next project.

andy

in some way?

Brilliant! Thanks Andy.

Ron

I build my SIII/IIa with a 90 bulkhead. Obviously I had to use Series Windscreen.

This windscreen needed two holes to take the bulkhead's locating pegs.

I also made a right hash of the windscreen hinges. I used 90 hinges and drilled some big holes through the windscreen frame.

I also had to do some fancy sheet aluminium work for the bellhousing cover to the transmission tunnel.

I used an alien engine with a cable throttle so I didn't need to worry about the long accelerator bar.

My steering wheel is _very_ slightly to one side of the seat. But that's how I sit now, so no longer a problem ;-)

Enjoy!

Thanks for that. I guessed there would be a bit of 'make it up as you go along' stuff, so now I'm prepared. thanks again. Ron