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SIII clutch adjustment

Jumped into the SIII this weekend for a drive around and a bit of greenlaning, but the clutch kept fading and dissapearing.

I had a similar problem 6months ago. Could not disengage clutch at times, fluid level moved when the peddle was pushed. We changed the master and slave cylinders and the problem was fixed. Although, there was only a very short amount of firm resistance at the end of the peddle travel. I expect this might be over extending the new slave cylinder. At the time I was unable to determine form the Haynes book how to adjust the lever that opperates the clutch from the slave cylinder.

Can this adjustment be made with the slave cylinder removed, or will I have to get inside the clutch housing? Or am I barking up the wrong tree, are the Paddocks/Craddocks (cant remember which) cheap cylinders a bit fooked?

DavidM

Reply to
DavidM
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The only adjustment available on the clutch in a Series 3 Land Rover is the pedal height at which the master cylinder is actuated. The adjustment for this is on the pushrod into the master cylinder, where the clutch pedal connects - you simply adjust the two nuts either side of the clutch pedal connector on this pushrod to move it in or out [assuming you can get your spanners in through the gap under the inspection cover!].

Make sure there is approx half a cm of float when the clutch pedal is released, otherwise you risk not allowing the clutch to disengage when you release the pedal [the release valve in the master cylinder never opens].

--> Greg

Reply to
grege

On or around Tue, 13 Jul 2004 12:10:20 +0100, "DavidM" enlightened us thusly:

the rod can be adjusted, you might need a slightly modified spanner or two, you have to get the cover off the box in the engine bay, to get at it.

the rod needs to have a small amount of free play when the clutch pedal is returned to it's normal "up" position. This is to allow the master cylinder piston to return fully home. If this doesn't happen, it'll go wrong.

similar evidence caused by the valve in the master cylinder not operating correctly or by the piston being stiff and not returning fully "home" under pressure from the internal spring.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Thank you both for the advice. I'll check the adjustments that we made to the master cylinder rod. As I remember it we had very little thread left to play with, the outer nut was very near the end of the rod. Maybe I need to tighten up the linkages between the peddle and the cylinder?

Cheers David

Reply to
DavidM

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