Swivels

I didnt find them too bad. The hardest bit is removing the bolts that hold on the old swivels (get your grinder ready, and make sure you have new nuts and bolts waiting to put back in)

Setting the preload properly is also fiddly and a bit of a pain if you have to keep taking out and putting back in shims. Not hard though. I ended up just setting mine to when they felt right to me, and its worked pretty well so far!

Did mine on a 96 Disco and ditto the above. Only bit that was a pain was not having a large enough socket to fit the hub nut!!!

Peter.

Cheers Chaps...

... Perhaps it can wait until spring eh?

If youre gonna do it this winter, then the next couple of days would look to be a pretty good time to choose. The sun even came out here today!

Tom Woods wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I'm no expert but I've done the swivels on two D90's now and the handbook says those bolts are put in with Locktight.

On the first D90, I cut the whole swivel housing off with a grinder because they were f*cked anyway.

On the second, I assumed the bolts were Locktighted so I put the propane torch on the bolts to heat them up and they came out as easily as anything. Derry

I'm quite a fan of heat if bolts don't shock loose fairly readily.

Cheers.

Shame Paddocks didn't realise that and send me the bits before I've even ordered them!

Look here

- lots ofgood advice and worth bookmarking. Do a Google Advanced Groups Search for lots of advice on changing swivels.

Have fun - oh, and use one-shot grease - - - - - - -

Regs, Mike.

Erm - I thought the one-shot grease was only for the later CV jointed vehicles. The series has a UJ onside the swivel and a Railko bush on the top - not a bearing. Will the grease work to lube that bush? If so I probably don't need to change the housings (or the oil seal even).

there was much debate about that here recently as I didn't know if my

1984 110 had the Railko bush thing in which would mean I had to use EP90. in the end I shoved the grease in on the assumption that it changed in design with the 110 as it's permenant 4WD.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

The 110 is much the same as the RR and Disco - bearings top and bottom and a CV joint rather than a Hardy-Spicer joint inside the swivel.

I'd love to use the grease in the SIII, but I'm sure it wont reach the parts that the oil will.

Well... I've not used that one shot grease but I have mixed normal grease with EP90 to make a very thick, but still runny, gooey stuff. Add the EP90 to the grease and blend (prefribly with a food mixer) untill you've got the mix about right. Its runny enought to get all around the top bush but not thin enought to get passed the swivel seal. Just wait till you have the house to your self!! Toby

Pennzoil make a semi-fluid grease that's absolutely magic for this (and doesn't lead to divorce). It's also damn good in slightly leaky Lada steering boxes.

I must admit I was considering using a 'sloppy' mix of Lithium grease and SAE 140 gear oil.

Well, the 110 I had up untill a year or so back had railkos - and I used one-shot with no apparant ill-effects over some 30k miles - - - - -

From debate here some time ago, I understand the stuff is a special grease which is (iirc) "thixotropic" - that apprantly means it becomes liquid when agitated. Like non-drip paint.

If you;'re going to all the trouble of stripping the thing down to change the swivs I'd have thought it was best to change the seals at the same time?

Later 110's had bearings top and bottom - mine was F reg / 89.

Regs, Mike.

Oh yes - the plan is to get the kit from Paddock for under 60 quid a side - inludes Railko, shims, seals, housing - the lot.

I didn't realise the earlier 110's still had the railko bush.