I've just put a V8 from an old rangie I bought into my 110, as the engine in it was used up and the new one has, allegedly, only done 10k miles since a rebuild. The engine number starts "RP EX", which doesn't match the Rover pattern of engine numbers, so I guess this ties in.
On or around Mon, 21 Jun 2004 10:39:46 +0100, "Badger" enlightened us thusly:
I'd be disappointed in one that didn't, frankly, unless the new number contains the same info about the engine. By all means add your own identifier (not you personally, any rebuilder, I mean) but leave the original info on the engine.
For good reason too, Austin, it proves that there isn't anything being hidden about the original engine's identity. If I was buying an engine and it's original no. had been removed I'd certainly be asking the seller to prove it was a legit engine, or I'd be walking. Reason I add my own no. is so that I can instantly tell what is in the engine from my own build database, what cam it left here with, what spec heads, what crank undersizes or rebores, who it was built for and what vehicle it was destined for etc, as it's altogether possible for a 3.5 to leave here with an early 110 8.13cr 15G series no., but with 10.5 pistons, efi heads, lumpy cam, adjustable pushrods and rhodes lifters etc, etc. Badger.
Under the vehicle identity rules, it would also be wise to retain the old engine number, so that there would be minimal problems if it went back into the original vehicle.
Some replacement (new) blocks don't have serial numbers on them at all. Stamping an old engine number into a new block could be seen as a bit dodgy as you are then changing the identity of the new block.I'd assume that an engine with an unusual number has had a new block (unless there are signs of grinding etc...). This applies more to 3.9 engines and onwards than 3.5's though. It's unusual for a 3.5 to have a new block but almost inevitable on a 3.9 or 4.6.
In that case the person owning or rebuilding the engine should stamp their own serial number into it for identification purposes. IMV it's better that way as the engine has an honest history rather than an assumed identity.
If you are rebuilding an engine with it's original block then I agree it should keep it's original number alongside any additional stamps you put in it.
But if you rebuild an engine with a replacement block, and scrap the original, I'd think it entirely appropriate to give the rebuild the original number.
Mine might be a new block then, as it has the weird number but no sign of grinding.
I've asked 4+4 about it (as Richard Adcock, who happens to be the previous owner, suggested) but they didn't have records going back far enough that they could easily get at.
Indeed, that is what "should" happen, just the same as if you fit a new chassis you should destroy the old and stamp the original number on the new. Anything else gets a "Q" plate, legally! Badger
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