Wheel bearings part 2

Right, new bearings, seal, gasket and tab washer sitting in the 110. Get the hi-lift out and jack it up, remove wheel, so far so good. Remove end cap, circlip and bolts holding drive flange to hub.

Bugger!! Drive flange is *very* rusted onto drive shaft splines and will not move at all. I've tried soaking it in WD40 and 3in1, I've tried heating it with a blow torch and I've tried hitting it!! It will still not move.

Any ideas anyone?

I'm going to find out if we have an oxy-acetylene rig here at work in case the blow torch didn't get it hot enough. If that doesn't work I may have to pay someone to do the job, and I don't really want to do that!!

Thanks.

Reply to
Simon Barr
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These can be complete b**t**rds to shift - don't be surprised if you end up having cut cut the dammed thing off and fit a new cv joint, it's the worst case but not unknown!

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

Cheers Richard. Its the sort of answer I expected but not what I wanted to hear. The cost of new wheel bearings just went right up!

I have thought about maybe cutting into the drive flange with the angle grinder as far as possible, then trying to split it with a cold chisel. Obviously trying not to damage the drive shaft while doing so, then fitting a new drive flange. Hmm, I wonder how much do new drive flanges cost.

Reply to
Simon Barr

Know this may seem like teaching granny, but, have you tried a breaker bar with an 6-8 foot scaffold pole over it? That amount of leverage will normally move anything, providing it's carefully applied. Oh, and try and use an impact driver socket, or at least a single hex socket, to prevent the chance of it slipping(rounding off the nut).

Reply to
Agrippa

I've been able to get all the bolts undone, its pulling the drive flange off the drive shaft splines I can't do, its rusted solid.

Reply to
Simon Barr

10.96 inc VAT here! Should be something like at your local emporium.... If you do need to change it, make sure the drive flange slides on to the drive shaft easily - or you'll be doing the job again one day (and you wont be able to set the end float properly!).

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

Just how important is it to get the end float right? I've looked in the manual and it says 0.08mm to 0.25mm. With the whole lot rusted up there is

0mm end float isn't there, yet it must have been rusted up for a while and it's been OK (I hope!).
Reply to
Simon Barr

Well, officially it should be set as specified...............

Richard

Reply to
richard.watson

The upper limit is suspiciously close to 10 thousandths of an inch, but at least whoever converted to metric knew about false precision.

Being rusted up won't have helped the old bearings.

Reply to
David G. Bell

My local LR parts place has never sold any shims for setting the float and says I was only the second person in I don't know how many years to ask for them.

So I'd take it it's not to important! I have enough secondhand shims now to get it set fairly accurately anyway.

The circlip is off (sorry:) I take it? I bash a chisel down between the hub and drive flange and that has always done it for me. Shock is what it needs, though heat probably wouldn't hurt either.

Regards

William MacLeod

Reply to
William MacLeod

Sorry :0( Will read it properly next time :0)

Reply to
Agrippa

That's what I was hoping.

Yes, the circlip is off, its always worth checking the obvious though :)

I was a bit too worried about bashing something between the two, not too sure how much it would mark/damage the surfaces. I tried heating it too though possibly not enough as I only have a small butane torch.

I've spoken to the place I bought the bearings from and they will do it for me for 80 quid. I wouldn't get another crack at it until next weekend anyway, and I need it to go laning on Sunday so its going to them to have the bearings fitted tomorrow.

As much as I hate paying someone to do it, this time I have to.

Thanks.

Reply to
Simon Barr

Well I don't. Must look it up on google. :-)

Reply to
Simon Barr

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