Advice re: 90 LS 400 w/ 20k

Apr 03, 2005 6 Replies

I have a chnace to buy an elderly friend of the family's '90 LS 400 with about 20,000 miles on it. It's in mint condition, always garaged, etc. etc, although it must be the cheapest LS 400 out there- cloth seats, no moonroof, manual passenger seat (I think). How does one put a value on this car? And what should I look out for in terms of problem areas on this car? One reason he's selling (besides wanting something smaller with all the latest safety stuff) is that the car just needed a bunch of expensive work, including ball joints. Why would it need ball joints at 20k? Excuse my ignorance; this would be my first Lexus.


- Dave



The current owner already took it to the dealer, who told him it needed lower ball joints ($530) , control arms ($1033) and strut bar cushions ($700), in addition to $500 in labor to replace plug wires, cap and rotor (since posting my first message, I've seen the bills). He thinks he's being totally hosed, and I agree from what I've seen. I have known of this car since new, and I know the 20k is correct. I don't know much about Lexi, but I'm a gearhead with enough experience with other cars to be skeptical of these bills. But if he wants out of it, I really want his car!

- Dave

IF those things need to be done, you can probably get them done by a reputable mechanic, even using Lexus parts, for 20% of what the dealer quoted.

Grab this puppy. Just know that you're getting an older car, and one that has (a) lots of gadgets for which (b) this is the very first model year EVER on the market. As a result, many of the gadgets aren't as thought out as they should be (dash lighting, for example).

Nonetheless, do it.

Or, be a nice guy and show the current owner how to take care of these things for cheap.

(sigh) In 1997 my aunt got rid of her 72 Plymouth because it had a power steering pump leak. The thing didn't have 15K miles on it. She bought a new Civic--base model with air and radio. I swore that would be my car someday.

Someday came a couple years ago, and....I couldn't justify having the car. It had 6800 miles on it. It needed new rubber, including drive and timing belts, and the muffler had a hole in it; other than that, you'd swear it never left the showroom. Even at the dealer, the required repairs would have been no more than $1000. I could have had that car for $2500. But, I had a perfectly good couple of family cars, and didn't have the room or the inclination to make room, so my now-sister-in-law got it.

I don't regret it, but if you need a car, get this one. And treat it well.

Something's definitely wrong with it needing ball joints at only 20k, even if it is 15 years old.

Given the age I would disregard the low mileage and go strictly on book value. If it's sat this long and only accumulated 20k miles (which itself is highly suspect since as you say it needs ball joints) you may be in for some other unexpected repairs for dried out seals, cracked/dry rotted belts, timing belt, etc. Easily $800~$1000 worth of work plus the ball joints. May possibly have dry rot affecting the tires too.

Series One LS400s are also notorious for PS fluid leaking into the alternator causing premature failure.

The work has already been done (the owner contacted me after he got the bill), so that just makes it that much more desireable for me, although it may also inflate the price he thinks he needs to get for it. Its hard to put a value on a car like this.

In California , there are still a lot of Caddys and Mustangs , performance cars etc. from the late 60's early 70's with under 100K miles. I've never heard of a rust free car that needed ball joints at 20K. There were other suspension parts you mentioned. Hmm....... I would have a * good * body shop rack it up and check it out. Just because it's low mileage does not mean it has not ever been in a major accident. New Owner makes a valid point.

Most insurance companies will not insure a car ( for collision ) that is 15 years or more old unless you buy a special antique or classic type of car insurance. You can still get liability and comprehensive , but you might have to self-insure for collision. This means you don't want to pay some ungodly price no matter how low the mileage. Ask your agent before you buy.

I have found Edmunds to be the most reliable in regards to the true market value of a car.

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* Using my business zip code in San Francisco , I came up with a private party price of $ 4, 643. A dealer could get $ 6,143. This is based on a 1990 Lexus LS 400 in outstanding condition with 20,000 miles. If it checks out fine at the body shop, I would not offer more than 5 grand for such a car.

Worst of all , 1990 was the first year of production. The 1st year of any production car is likely to have the most problems. My 1997 ( last year of the second generation LS400 ) has been almost perfection. My

2001 ( first year of the 4th generation Lexus LS 430 ) had quite a few bugs. They were taken care of under warranty. Since you will be buying this car AS IS , I would proceed with caution.

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