2001 Seat Ibiza S 1.4 v 2001 Avensis?

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Yep.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan
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OOI, is one better than the other, where better for our needs would ideally be more 'bulletproof'. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

I just managed to ring my mate today and apparently it only has a tape radio player but it looks like it may also have one of those integrated radios where it's effectively a key part of the car (managing the aircon I think I read!).

Now, it looks like all may not be lost as I think I understand you can fit a CD changer in the boot (assuming there isn't already one there) and the wiring is already installed?

But is that it? Does any CD changer that is marked as being compatible with a 2001 Ibiza going to work with whatever head unit this car happens to have?

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

But what about the full

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?

The reflections look a bit uneven, but that may just be the jpg.

Reply to
Nick Finnigan

Just for the S&G's Nick. ;-)

Vehicle make SEAT Vehicle model IBIZA Date first used 22 June 2001 Fuel type Petrol Colour Red

MOT history of this vehicle

Test date 13 June 2016 Expiry date 12 June 2017 Test Result Pass Odometer reading 52,569 miles MOT test number Advisory notice item(s) nearside front Tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.E.1)

Reply to
T i m

En el artículo , Nick Finnigan escribió:

It's a shed, a banger. I think the OP has a severe case of OCD and/or needs to get a life.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

Au contraire - for a 15YO car I think it looks in good condition. Worthless, as per any 10+ YO car, but not a shed!

(Compare and contrast to what a 15YO car was 20 years ago - a bag of rust held together with paint most of the time!)

Reply to
Scott M

It's still due for it's EOL treatment.

The age at which most cars are scrapped is still 15 years.

Only these days I think it's a combination of clutch and cam belt needing changing with the prospect of a bill for a lot more than the car is worth.

Stock list of one large breakers in the Midlands. Currently Dismantling - Last Updated 10/08/2016

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Newest 2007 Mean 2001 Oldest 1989

Year Count

1989 2 1990 1 1993 1 1994 2 1995 2 1996 2 1997 5 1998 16 1999 23 2000 31 2001 44 2002 58 2003 41 2004 17 2005 10 2006 6 2007 2 Grand Total 263

Average age of the 11 VW is 16, same as Toyota (6 cars). A bit longer than Citroen (11 cars), Rover (9 cars), Renault (29 cars) that have average age of 14.

As ever Peugeot are just a little bit better than Citroen, with 30 cars having average age of 15.

Ignoring marques with very large average ages but low numbers

Reply to
Peter Hill

But it's not just all about making a comparison between what a car may be 'nominally' worth but also considering things like the cost of any alternatives, it's 'value' to you for sentimental, nostalgic or other reasons.

Like, the Meriva was given to be by my Mum when my Dad died and it's nice for us to keep some happy memories going for her. We took her down to her (was 'their') static caravan on the coast the other day and she even mentioned that the car 'knew it's own way there' and that it looked so familiar seeing it parked on the little concrete pad outside the van.

So, would I have gone out and bought a Meriva, probably not. Has it been the best car I've ever owned (graded by me on TCO, reliability and flexibility) and the answer is no but, it's not bad.

So, say the Seat cost 400 quid, could we find anything 'better' out there for the same or less and the answer would probably be a resounding 'yes' ... but what and where? Has anyone here got a similar type of car that they would be happy to vouch for (say with a years guarantee) for the same money we could have?

But whilst that could tell us something, how might it reflect the number of each brand out there, their typically treatment and original cost?

The issue (in this case) isn't which car (Ibiza / Avensis) is 'better' as graded by anything other than which is likely to be the cheapest to run.

So, if anyone had anything in that price range that was 'better' (by those criteria) and was a 'better' deal than whatever we have available atm (which happens to be a Seat Ibiza), please let us know! ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

My newest car is 16, the oldest 52. With the exception of major impact destruction I will just repair them when needed, anything new would be a gamble unless I already personally knew the car. Always: better the devil you know.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Wow. I thought the kitcar (Mk2 Escort) at nearly 40 was quite old! What is your 52yr old OOI MrC?

Quite.

And in this case 'we' know more about the history of the Seat (5 yrs) than we do the Toyota (1.5). ;-)

I managed to have a quick look round it yesterday and a quick run round the carpark. The clutch is new but the action feels a bit 'sticky' (it was similar with daughter 600cc Suzuki Bandit and when she fitted a new cable it was like silk V barbed wire).

It looks like the cable comes off the clutch lever and goes though the bulkhead quite high up on the n/s? I'm guessing there is some form of linkage that takes the action to the o/s, rather than the cable snaking over to the pedalbox itself? If it does the whole trip by cable I'm not surprised it feels 'sticky'!

The other ting I noticed was the o/s rear window winder was very stiff but you could slide the windows down by hand. When similar happened on the Sierra (I tried to wind the window down when it was frozen) and the scissor action had collapsed on the electric window on the Rover (that I straightened up and welded to reinforce).

Mate is going to stick his borascope in there to see what it is.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

One daughter has a 51 Micra which had 30,000 miles when bought for £350 last year. But you would have to look for a local granny selling another.

Reply to
Nick Finnigan

a local old widow sold her 20k fabia for 150 quid, the mot and service had cost more, just two months before.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Whilst this Seat isn't obviously as good a deal as those (not sure about Jap spares prices again though) it's that sort of thing.

A while back I was offered (for nowt) a Peugeot saloon (probably worth

2K at the time) but needed some work, possibly including the PAS pump and an older Daihatsu Terios that had done quite low mileage but again being Jap was possibly expensive to fix and run.

I'm not saying the Ibiza would be better or worse than the either or the Avensis but may at least be better because it might be a better ride than the Terios and smaller than the Pug and cheaper to insure and tax that all three (for her).

OOI, I recorded the Seat engine in case anyone who was familiar with such things thought it sounded bad for some reason:

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It had really only just started to warm up and hasn't been run for a while (I'm not sure it's been on a decent run for a while).

So, it's had a new cambelt 4 years ago and his (online) Autodata seems to suggest a replacement interval of 60 months (not the 48 I understood it to be?), so at least it's not *long* overdue. It's had a new clutch, a new rear exhaust box and at least two new tyres. There doesn't seem to be any rust on the body and the interior looks (and smells) pretty clean (as in wear, tears and burns, it could do with a good valet though). ;-)

I'm still going to get it up in the air when his 4 poster is free and may even get it on the road myself (do you know if 'can drive any car not owned by you 3rd party' applies to a car not otherwise insured?[1]) and see what it's like.

Cheers, T i m

[1] That does apply to my motorcycle insurance. I can ride (3rd party) any motorbike, even if it's otherwise uninsured. However, that cover only starts when I get on it and stops the instant I get off.
Reply to
T i m

It is hard to tell from a recording, but it sounds noisier than it should at this end.

Insurance for other vehicles is not on a consistent basis, you have to actually ask your company. The trouble is the anpr cameras that ping for no insurance, then you need to be able to show at the roadside that you are insured, there is also the lack of tax to consider, so take care.

Reply to
MrCheerful

I used my Samsung S4 and I don't think that does any favours to that sort of thing.

I would in any case.

Understood. When I was going to put a towbar on my motorcycle I phone my insurance Co to check the position. They looked into it and said (over the phone) that it was all ok. I asked them to put that in writing and the initially said they couldn't. Long short, they did and I made sure I printed it off and put it in my bike insurance folder.

Again, understood. I have never knowingly ever driven or ridden without tax, insurance or MOT and wouldn't, ever (well, not since I was 14-16 on the mopeds and scooters I'd rebuilt). ;-)

I wouldn't (apart from the fact it's 'illegal' outside of tax / MOT to / from my local MOT stn etc) because if anyone should get caught it would be me. [1]

I took my daughter pillion on her 125cc scooter to pick up the Honda CB250 I'd been painting at my mates garage that was 100 yards up the road as we were then going onto the MOT station with both bikes and assuming a pass to go for a ride. She commented on the fact that we were still displaying L plates but I dismissed her concern as we were 'only going 100 yards ...'. 50 yards into the journey and on a narrow bit of road we come face to face with a Police traffic car (not a std Panda) and on go the blues. He pulled level with me, I flipped up my visor, he wound down his window, I quickly explained in an obviously frustrated / disbelieving tone what was going on and he just smiled and drove off. I was surprised I wasn't the first person ever to be actually done for 'wasting Police time' for displaying L plates when not pertinent. ;-)

"Removing L plates

As a qualified driver, you should remove L plates from the vehicle when you are not teaching a learner driver. Although this isn?t a legal requirement and no penalty points or fines can be issued, a solitary driver displaying L plates is likely to attract the attention of the police and you may find yourself being stopped.

The police will likely check your details and the vehicle details and advise you to remove the L plates when not teaching. The only persons permitted to drive whilst not teaching a learner driver and to display L plates are licensed driving instructors."

(Or when a full licence holder and carrying a pillion passenger on a motorbike etc).

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Cheers, T i m [1] I was the one given an SP-30 for doing 63 mph in a 70 mph limit (clear bright day, empty road, vehicle AOk) because I was driving a 'goods vehicle' (Morris Minor Van (with rear but no side windows)) and therefore limited to 50 mph.

Reply to
T i m
[...]

Both engine codes for that vehicle show a replacement interval of 48 months on my (installed) Autodata version 3.38.

This site has also proved reliable in the past:

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IMHO, it would not be sensible to swap the Avensis for the Seat, and even less sensible to not do the cambelt on the Seat.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Understood. They were also my findings Chris.

Are you willing to pay for the cost of any further repairs that are required though , (or the known and repeated yearly) 'extra' cost of TAX and insurance over something non Jap / smaller?

This is nothing really to do with what's best (or better) but what is likely to be the cheapest to run? If someone had a 100k 1.2 16V Corsa for sale at 500 quid with FSH (or 'known') I wouldn't have even asked the question (as daughters 2001 Corsa is now close to 200,000 miles and has cost little over the £400 she paid for it a good few years ago).

No, I agree on that Chris. Even *just* changing the belt (rather than any tensioners / water pump) would be my advice in any case,

*especially* if it's not a 'safe engine'.

I have had and ridden a BMW R100RT (flat twin, air cooled 'boxer') for many years and so far it's been my most unreliable bike. In fact the last time it broke down (175 miles from home on the second day of our family motorcycle / camping holiday) with a stripped gearbox input splines (clutch)) I vowed I'd look for something more reliable. The local bike shop leant me a Yamaha Diversion 900 and it was a vastly superior bike for nearly all things (except weight). I rode it twice over the week I had it and gave it back, now fully happy that I would put up with the issues on the BM because 1) I only rode for fun, not commuting and 2) I loved (and missed) the BMW 'character', it suited 'me'.

ATM, my stepdaughter doesn't have a lot of money and therefore, simply can't afford any transport (as that is all it is to her, she has no real interested in cars or driving) that turns out to be any more expensive than it could be. I don't think anyone here so far has suggested that the Avensis is necessarily a cheap car to run, and certainly not for a 36 year old with some bad insurance luck (two cars written off by others) against her. The car cost her £400 less than 2 years ago and has spent nearly £1000 on it so far in things that I believe would have cost a lot less on a smaller / non Jap car and especially so, had I been easily to do the things for her (including get the parts cheaply and easily).

I supervised daughters Ex replacing the exhaust on his Berlingo Van the other day (in the road, in a gale and the pissing rain) and ignoring the weather and the difficulty of access to the exhaust manifold bolts, it was a POP. Same with the rear brake shoes / cylinders hoses. Same with daughters Corsa rear road springs (that she did herself), a bit of rust in the o/s/r floorpan / inner sill (that I did for her) or her Transit Connect alternator clutch. All the parts for the above cost little, were easily available and we were able to change ourselves.

I even stripped all of the carpet out of the Corsa and much of the stuff in front of the bulkhead to be able to fix a classic (pedal box) water leak.

The thing is in all the above cases the drivers had alternative means of independent transport (other cars / motorbikes) but stepdaughter does not. Nor does she still live here where all the tools are, and so is doubly reliant on the honesty of a local garage.

If I open the bonnet of the Avensis it looks very full / complicated and I wouldn't know where to start to fix the disco of lights that sometimes appear on the dash, let alone want to try to get under it to change an exhaust system.

The Seat (or something like it) is IMHO closer to the KISS principal and therefore *should* (no one can see the unknown) be a *cheaper* form of transport for her.

Now, it often makes sense, after spending a bit of money for a repair to then get some use out of it but the issue then is she has already missed some 'known' car opportunities because the Avensis was actually running ok at the time. So, she could continue to drive it till it goes wrong again and 'then' hunt about (involving me in the process of course) to try to find something affordable that wasn't being sold because it had started to be a problem for someone else?

At least with this Seat I'd have plenty of time to crawl all over it and possibly even drive it myself for a bit before she decides.

This is no more than doing what lots of people / businesses find themselves having to do when the outgoings exceed the incomings and that's 'downsize'.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

the tyre knackering problem on the seat is likely to be that it uses the same weak rubber bush on the back of the bottom arm as the Polo, the trick is to replace them with solid cupra bushes, special tool needed either way.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Oh, is there 'a problem' MrC? I was just saying that maybe the worn tyres were coming up on yearly advises because the owner wasn't doing any 'miles' so simply kept the same tyres till they failed an MOT?

Like the front pads were an advise on the Meriva last MOT but as I don't think we do 2k year would last much longer (in years) than most 'normal' drivers.

What sort of 'special' tool (eg, would my 10 Tonne hydraulic press help) and if so how much are they?

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

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