i need a new car

does n e 1 have a really cheap car wats in good nick around 100 pounds willing to pay cheers razz could u reply if u do manchester area

Reply to
Razz Hughes
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i haf a rally gr8 car m8 itz got all 4 wheels in it an gos back and forwards most of a time. It aint new tho its 1986 i fink but it looks well smart tho

Reply to
Chris B

pounds

yo dude! i hav big up nova motor whichiz dead bling-bling bro. tis da muvva wiv big up wheelz and pumpin ice!

100 nuggetz and it be yours!

MC Shokka

Reply to
Shockwave

Razz mate, speak english, it works better on here.

Get on the Autotrader website, go for any make, and model, below =A3500.

See what comes up. Mate picked up an MI16 405 for =A3250 with 6 months tax= =20 and ticket. drove it until the ticket was almost up, and ebayed it for=20 =A3400, got what he paid, plus the second hand air meter he fitted to stop= =20 the stalling prob it had.

For =A3100 you will be lucky to find much with an MOT (and likely to pass= =20 the next one), unless you aren't fussy at all.

Think Lada/Skoda/old Renault 5 (small engine not GT Turbo)./rusted out=20 early civic/Marina.

You might get lucky and pick up a monster Beamer or something silly huge=20 on it's last legs, but if you only have =A3100 can see fueling it being a= =20 problem.

--=20 The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.

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Reply to
MeatballTurbo

"For £100 you will be lucky to find much with an MOT (and likely to pass the next one), unless you aren't fussy at all."

I'm reaching the point where I won't pay more than 100 quid for a car. Anything I've paid more for never seems to be any better, unless I want to go looking for bland repmobiles over 700 quid.

My current car has cost me a fiver for a burger to the person who drove me over to pick it up, 15 quid for new wheel bearing, 4 quid to get the local tractor place to pop the hub off for me. Oh, and a tenner for the insurance transfer. Plus some parts off another one that cost 100 quid a while ago, that I drove till it died/ got vandalised.

Tax and test till end of September, got it before Xmas, just never got round to fixing it till last week.

It's probably worth 400 or so as it is, up to around 700 - 800 if I sorted it a bit and lined the bonnet up properly. True, it's only got 60hp on a good day, and is 36 years old, but still :)

Reply to
Stuffed

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yeah, but was it online on the Autotrader. I've noticed that the price of the cars is starting to creep up on there. Used to be real bargains, now they don't seem to have anything for peanuts anymore. Even Loot seems to have gone classy.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

"Razz Hughes" wrote in news:c9793q$1ih$1 @sparta.btinternet.com:

why dont u just go and nick one, you manc? its cheaper.

Reply to
TheHeathenChemist

LMFAO!

Reply to
Vamp

In article , snipped-for-privacy@home.now spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

I resent that, not all Mancs steal old bangers, some Carjack for a more quality ride.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

I got this one through the club's website. My last freebie was from an enthusiast's Yahoo group. Depends what you're after though. If I just looked through Adtrader I'd end up parting with cash, but by having an interest in certain cars, and checking the sites when I want something, I do quite well. Only problem is sometimes I look when I don't need a car, and end up having to beg friends for parking spaces :)

Reply to
Stuffed

In article , snipped-for-privacy@theworld.com spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

Just remind me mate, what is it you drive again?

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

Currently - 1968 TR1300 fwd. Was using a 1500TC (rwd) auto, but that really needs a rest and much work, like a new engine, box, suspension, maybe a bit of welding, new carpets, that sort of thing.

Not fast or flash, but comfortable, cheap to insure, free tax on one, different to modern blob boxes, and not bad cars other than the engines are gutless and a bit fragile. Can be a bit of a pain getting certain parts for them, and they drink a bit due to being nearly a ton of car with 60hp to pull it round town, but I like them :)

Best part is if you don't want a Sprint, and don't want to pay Sprint insurance, the smaller engines small saloons can be picked up for peanuts, quite often in good nick too. Of course, they're slow, although the 1850 seems not too bad, but you can always make them go faster, or fork out and get the go faster one in the first place if that's your requirement :)

Reply to
Stuffed

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not bad motors. Very under rated.

Yep, proper utility classics.

You ever thought of trying to stuff a Saab turbo lump into the 1500 Dolly?

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

They get overshadowed by the Sprint, true. But the engines are s**te, rattly, gutless and just hateful really. The early 1300 like I've got in the fwd is much better revving and lasts longer, but still isn't great at keeping itself in one peice, IMO.

However, reach and height adjustable steering on both, all round independant suspension on the fwd, along with retractable window winders, decent looks, etc, make them both pretty nice cars so long as performance isn't your main need. The auto struggles, but the fwd can keep up with town traffic, not had it on an open road yet though.

I use them as daily drivers, like they were designed to be. I never fall for the argument about classics being unreliable, there's no reason why a car should do the job it was intended for any worse when it's old than when it was new, so long as it's been well kept.

Briefly. Then thought about an NA one, then thought about the Rover 2l 8v or

16v. Insurance is one consideration, that really puts me off a turbo lump, plus ease of fitting and cost of parts. The auto is staying small Triumph engine because if I'm going to mess around, it's not going to be with an auto. Besides, the only other engine that would be an easy fit is an A series, which I'd love, but getting hold of a Marina 1300 auto bellhousing and other needed bits has proven impossible. The 1300 might get something if I decide to keep it, but I'm considering running it till the next MOT, getting a full ticket on it, and seeing if I can get a swap for something else small and tax exempt. Need to see if I like it or not first.

Got another 1500TC (and I'll thank you not to call them Dolomites, cause they might be the same bodyshell and engine, but they're TCs! ;) that's a manual that will get the engine swap if I ever do it. The box is tired anyway, as is the back axle, don't know about the engine. The whole car is in many bits, going to take a lot longer than planned thanks to rust, but that's the one I'd like to drop more power into. The Saab lump is the wrong way round though, isn't it? I think it's been talked about many times on the club board, but nobody seems to think it's really possible.

Not that I'll ever do anything with the car anyway, always got something else to do so never have time and money to get properly started on it :(

Reply to
Stuffed

In article , snipped-for-privacy@theworld.com spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

In the Saab it is the opposite way round (lean angle) but the clutch is directly behind the radiator too.

If you turned it round so that it faced the normal RWD position it would be the same angle, but the dizzy would be at the rear of the engine, on the passenger side.

Biggest problem you might have is finding a Sump, as on the Saab, the sump is the top of the gearbox casting, and the clutch operates a triple chain down to the transmission.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

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