Just had a call from the daughter saying she went to move her T220 van (1.8 and whatever the older spec engine was) after driving a few miles and leaving it parked for a while and it wouldn't start. It spins over ok, oil and water ok, no immobiliser (I don't think it turns over if immobilised), plenty of diesel ... ;-(
I asked her to see if she could see the camshaft though the oil filler hole (thinking cam belt / chain) but she doesn't seem able to so the AA are on their way.
If they can't fix it, don't know what it is and relay it here ... are there any 'typical' compatible failure modes for that engine / vehicle and 150K+ miles please?
Up to this point it's been super reliable and runs well considering it's age / miles etc.
I guess it could be if 1) They are known to be a common failure point and 2) that it tries to fire when stuff is sprayed into the input hose (therefore feeding the engine with fuel)?
I'm sorting out my netbook with Forscan / OBD dongle and will see if I can see anything working (sensors etc) or not?
P0404 - EGR P1664 - This Relates to Injection Pump Control Module Malfunction P1564 - This Relates to Fuel injection pump - reduced fuel mode request P1608 - This Relates to Signal monitoring malfunction
Fuel pressure would be first thing to test I would suggest.
Thanks for those Chris. So (not really knowing how all these different systems work), the fuel pump in the tank delivers fuel to the pump (low pressure) all the time (the ignition is on) and if / once it has sensed that the injector pump kicks in (high pressure). Insufficient pressure (rather than flow) from the tank and we could get the symptoms and codes we are seeing?
you should be able to hear the pump run immediately after ign on, for a few seconds at least. Work out which are the power and earth leads that go to it, and power it up to double check.
You could also pull off the pipes at the fuel filter, turn the ign on and fuel should flow out, that would be the fastest way to check for the in-tank pump running.
most ford use a quick connect that needs squeezing on both sides at the same time, this allows the pipe to be removed over the ridge on the fixed pipe. you could probably alter an old pair of pliers or grips to do the job, not very much force is needed.
Understood. That error has been fairly persistent but doesn't put up any lights or effect how it runs.
So are we still going to check the earth / fuel pump from what you mentioned previously MrC (and is the earth mentioned behind the lower panel of the o/s of the drivers footwell)?
Would a malfunctioning injector pump stop the fuel pump running (some ECU, EDC logic / interconnect)?
Cheers, T i m
p.s. Assuming it's a Bosch VP44, VP37 or VP30 Diesel Pump ...
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... EDC fault, how would I be able to check / test if the fault could be fixed by these steps would you know please?
I would start with the simplest thing: the fuel supply delivery.
If it looks like being a Royal Pain to sort, I would usually transfer it to my local diesel specialist. Did that last week with a late VW diesel that lost a cylinder, likely fault was a dodgy injector, but even getting an injector out needs a special extractor, so I left it to them to sort, a week later it has still not come back, so I am glad I did not get deeply involved.
Nor me, just I thought the concept was cool and it might just be a matter of finding the right things to monitor (if such was available etc).
Check. We have already added another 25L of diesel, just in case the fuel gauge was lying to us. We could also replace the fuel filter (because) and can check the pump at the same time.
Apparently our has at lest 1 weeks lead time and they aren't known to be cheap (and this is a 14 year old van etc).
Quite, but I'm keen to at least be able to tick off some of the basic things before she has to be without the van for a week+ and it costs her unnecessarily (if I (we ) can sort it etc).
And should it get too expensive (worst case here then), are there any petrol Connects that don't have such expensive bits (or likely to have such issues for 200k miles) or are all fuel injection things equally expensive?
There was only one petrol offering, a 1.8. The additional fuel costs over
200k miles would wipe out any possible savings on maintenance. Consequently they are fairly rare.
You have to be realistic if running any every-day vehicle that is 14 years old, and essentially treat it as disposable if anything other than trivial goes wrong. Have a realistic idea of its replacement cost, and if a repair is more than 2/3 of its value, scrap it.
The problem with that (of course) is you could easily be 'out of the frying pan, into the fire' / buying someone else's problem. ;-(
e.g. Short of buying something new with a warranty (that actually covered the bits that break) then anything just outside of warranty will probably cost more in depreciation and I'm not sure if it would be (statically) less likely to go wrong (later = more complex = lower MTBF?) or cost any less to repair?
Don't get me wrong, spending (risking) £1000 on a £1000 vehicle may seem pointless but it's still £1000 even if it's a £8000 vehicle and you are more likely to lose more if you don't spend out on having it fixed (and sell it as a repairable).
I'm guessing the costs of one of these extra warranties would also be more money down the pan and probably not fully cover the cost of replacing a fuel pump in any case?
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